A WALK IN PIAZZA DEL POPOLO - ROME

PIAZZA DEL POPOLO

The towns and cities of Italy are known for their charming piazzas or public squares. They are often adorned with decorative fountains and statues and surrounded by historical buildings. Rome, with a population of almost three million, has many urban piazza's—each unique in its own way.

My favorite is the Piazza del Popolo—a place that I walked through daily for a month. Most of the time, as I passed through the lively piazza, I was heading out or returning from an excursion to the metro, a coffee bar, grocery store, or a leisurely walk in the park. However, sometimes I lingered just to take it all in: observing the people, listening to the street music, watching the children chase gigantic bubbles (thanks to the “bubble man”), and the young man trying to give out “free” roses to the ladies. No matter what the time of day, it was always entertaining.

The people and activities varied by the moment. However, the historical significance and beauty of the Piazza del Popolo have remained the same for centuries. A history lesson of ancient Rome is on display in any direction you chose to gaze.

PORTA DEL POPOLO

EGYPTIAN OBELISK OF RAMES III

To the north is the Porta del Popolo—this was the main entrance to the city during the Roman Empire when it was called Porta Flaminia. The gate was rebuilt in the 15th century by Pope Sixtus IV on the same site as the ancient Roman gate. The outside wall is the work of Italian architect, Nanni di Baccio Bigio and the inner interior facade was completed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in 1655.

In the center of the piazza is the famous Egyptian obelisk of Ramses II—the second oldest and one of the tallest obelisks in Rome. It was brought from Egypt to Rome in 10 BC and was originally set up in Circus Maximus and moved to its current location in 1589. It is surrounded by four fascinating lion fountains with water spouting out of their mouths. The steps surrounding obelisk provide a great place to sit and enjoy the surroundings of the large piazza that is more oval than square and closed to motorized traffic.

Looking south. toward the medieval city center. are the fascinating baroque churches of Santa Maria in Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli. Built in the 17th century, they are often cited as “twins,” due to their similar external appearance.

The Santa Maria del Popolo (1477) sits next to the Porta del Popolo, it was the first church for the majority of travelers entering the city and the most treasured church in the piazza. The entire chapel was designed by Raphael. It is also the home of two Caravaggio masterpieces.

Many old and interesting streets extend out from the Piazza—my favorite is the artist street called Via Margutta. This short, tucked-away street was once home to Fellini, Rembrandt, Picasso, Simone de Beauvoir, and Marcello Mastrianni. The nearby Bar Canova, on the southeast corner of the piazza, is where Fellini is said to have stopped by every morning for his coffee. 

On our last morning in Rome, I made a final hike up the steps to Pincian Hill for one last view of the Piazza Popolo and city from above. It was peaceful. The one thing that I learned about Rome is that wherever you were, and however crowded it might be, you could almost always walk, just a little farther, to find a quieter area to enjoy.

BRIDGES OF ROME & THE TIBER RIVER

The Tiber River winds its way through Rome with 20 bridges connecting the two sides. A favorite pastime in the city is crossing over one bridge, walking a short distance, and walking back to the other side on the next bridge. “Crossing the Tiber” is also a term used by the Romans to indicate the conversion of a Protestant to Catholicism.

Each bridge is unique. The oldest is the Ponte Fabricio that is basically the same as when it was built in 62 BC. One of the most beautiful is the Ponte Sant'Angelo, a pedestrian-only bridge, that was built by Roman Emperor Hadrian in 134 AD. It is adorned along the sides with ten large statues of angels holding instruments of the Passion—all designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

It's fun to climb down the many stairs to be closer to the river and then walk or bike directly alongside it. This is the best way to avoid the street noise and to see the bridges from below. You feel as if you are walking in a remote area rather than in the middle of a city with a population of almost three million. Stairs are conveniently located at each bridge.

If it happens to be raining, which it seemed to do a lot during our recent May visit, there are miles of old eucalyptus trees that line the high river walk and offer protection from the rain. One day, I walked for over a mile staying dry, despite the steady rainfall—still enjoying a pleasant view of the river.

The Tiber River is known for its many twists and turns which means that it is never the shortest route between two points. However, when it came to navigating the city I still found it helpful at times. We were staying within a block of the river and I always felt confident that I could find my way home by following the river—a valuable tool when your sense of direction is not the best.

The Tiber has caused serious flooding throughout history resulting in large accumulations of silt build up in the many low lying areas of Rome. Consequently, many ancient ruins were buried under the mud for centuries until they were exposed by excavation. The last disastrous flood took place in 1870; it resulted in over 14 feet of water in the Piazza Del Pantheon and in many other areas of the city flood plain. 

In 1876, the government decided to take drastic action to resolve this centuries-old problem. One of the solutions was the building of 39-foot tall retaining walls which the Romans call embankments. They span along both sides of the whole urban stretch of the river banks. Today the risk of flooding is unlikely. Since 1875, the river has flooded three times, the last one was in 1937.

      The downside of the construction was that it resulted in the loss of centuries-old buildings, historical wharves, and lovely views. To get a glimpse of what the Tiber might have looked like prior to 1876, here is a link to watercolor paintings by Ettore Roesler Franz (1845 to 1907) from his famous series Vanished Rome. 

The importance of the river cannot be overstated in the history of the country, or the development of the nation.       -Maurice Hinchey