HONARRIBIA, SPAIN -- ON THE WAY OF ST. JAMES

   I was walking along the water in Hendaye, France, last October, when I noticed a small ferry in the harbor, offering rides to Spain. On a whim, I decided to board and enjoy the short 15-minute trip across the River Bidasoa to Hondarribia. I soon learned that I was crossing the river on a wooden boat—just as the medieval pilgrims did more than 1,000 years ago. In their time, this was considered one of the safest crossings between France and Spain.

Hondarribia (pop. 16,500) is one of the best-preserved fortress cities in the Basque Country of Spain, with gates, ramparts, and narrow stone streets that travelers, soldiers, and merchants have frequented for centuries. The town also sits near the beginning of the Camino del Norte, one of the earliest and most scenic pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela that began shortly after the reported discovery of the tomb of St. James in the 9th century.

As I wandered through the small medieval city, I noticed the fascinating old wooden homes painted in reds, blues, and greens. The story behind the colorful homes in this old fishing village is that they were painted to match the color of the boats of their loved ones.

I stopped for coffee in the Plaza de Armas and enjoyed a view of the former castle of Emperor Charles V, now a luxury hotel. Then I continued my stroll through this beautifully preserved walled city, with coastal paths, an old castle, and cathedrals. I noticed an ancient shell sign with an arrow, which assured me that I was once again walking on the Way of St. James, the same trail followed by 9th-century pilgrims on their way to see the burial site of Saint James. Back then, the ancient paths were rudimentary, and the pilgrims were faced with bandits, wolves, harsh weather, treacherous river crossings, and much more.

As I boarded the boat for my return trip to Hendaye, I thought about the pilgrims who also rode on small wooden boats to begin their 500-mile pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. The Bidasoa River, separating Hendaye and Hondarribia, was believed to have a guardian spirit, and the pilgrims were known to whisper a short blessing to the river to ensure safe passage. The ancient Basque belief that rivers, caves, and mountains are alive with spirits is still believed by many in this part of Spain.