BRIDGES OF ROME & THE TIBER RIVER

The Tiber River winds its way through Rome with 20 bridges connecting the two sides. A favorite pastime in the city is crossing over one bridge, walking a short distance, and walking back to the other side on the next bridge. “Crossing the Tiber” is also a term used by the Romans to indicate the conversion of a Protestant to Catholicism.

Each bridge is unique. The oldest is the Ponte Fabricio that is basically the same as when it was built in 62 BC. One of the most beautiful is the Ponte Sant'Angelo, a pedestrian-only bridge, that was built by Roman Emperor Hadrian in 134 AD. It is adorned along the sides with ten large statues of angels holding instruments of the Passion—all designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

It's fun to climb down the many stairs to be closer to the river and then walk or bike directly alongside it. This is the best way to avoid the street noise and to see the bridges from below. You feel as if you are walking in a remote area rather than in the middle of a city with a population of almost three million. Stairs are conveniently located at each bridge.

If it happens to be raining, which it seemed to do a lot during our recent May visit, there are miles of old eucalyptus trees that line the high river walk and offer protection from the rain. One day, I walked for over a mile staying dry, despite the steady rainfall—still enjoying a pleasant view of the river.

The Tiber River is known for its many twists and turns which means that it is never the shortest route between two points. However, when it came to navigating the city I still found it helpful at times. We were staying within a block of the river and I always felt confident that I could find my way home by following the river—a valuable tool when your sense of direction is not the best.

The Tiber has caused serious flooding throughout history resulting in large accumulations of silt build up in the many low lying areas of Rome. Consequently, many ancient ruins were buried under the mud for centuries until they were exposed by excavation. The last disastrous flood took place in 1870; it resulted in over 14 feet of water in the Piazza Del Pantheon and in many other areas of the city flood plain. 

In 1876, the government decided to take drastic action to resolve this centuries-old problem. One of the solutions was the building of 39-foot tall retaining walls which the Romans call embankments. They span along both sides of the whole urban stretch of the river banks. Today the risk of flooding is unlikely. Since 1875, the river has flooded three times, the last one was in 1937.

      The downside of the construction was that it resulted in the loss of centuries-old buildings, historical wharves, and lovely views. To get a glimpse of what the Tiber might have looked like prior to 1876, here is a link to watercolor paintings by Ettore Roesler Franz (1845 to 1907) from his famous series Vanished Rome. 

The importance of the river cannot be overstated in the history of the country, or the development of the nation.       -Maurice Hinchey