Sunday, August 14, 2016

VINTAGE JOURNEY TO NORTH MINEAPOLIS-CAMDEN

MY FRIEND JEAN'S OLD HOUSE ON UPTON AVE. NO.

     Not too many visitors to Minneapolis spend time on the northside. However, this is where my roots are and any visit to the area requires a nostalgic tour of the old neighborhood. We all grew up somewhere and we take it with us the rest of our lives—nothing can change that.
     When I lived in this area in the 1950s and '60s, it was referred to as North Minneapolis; today it is called Camden. Camden is now the upper half of the northside. Its boundaries are 53 Avenue North to the north, the Mississippi River to the east, Lowry Avenue North to the south and Xerses Avenue North to the west. The population is around 32,000.
     Today is one of the perfect days in Minneapolis, 70 degrees F. and beautiful sunshine. It's a quiet day and I'm enjoying a leisurely drive and walk around the old neighborhood. The area looks the same in some ways: the original homes are still standing, many of which were built in the 1920s, the lush green trees still prevail, same sidewalks for walking, wide street, and as always some of the homeowners are better gardeners than others.
 
THE OLD GROCERY & MEAT MARKET ON THOMAS AVE. NO.
    The businesses have changed dramatically through the years. My Parents' grocery and meat market, 3855 Thomas Avenue North, is now vacant and for sale (asking price: $165,000). The 1918 vintage building looks deserted and has weeds coming out of the front sidewalk cracks. The home where I grew up is attached and located in the back. The bakery and the Knotty Pine Cafe across the street, that we use to frequent, were closed down long ago. The old small businesses had a lot to do with the feeling community that once prevailed.
    
    The triplex next door, that my parents built in 1963 and then moved into, is looking a bit run down, but basically okay. The neighboring apartment, 3847 Thomas Avenue North, that my grandfather designed and built in the 1920s, is still standing and looking good. That's probably due to the fact that Jerry, to whom my father sold it, still owns and lives in the building.
     I continued to drive along 44th Avenue North to Penn Avenue and noticed some new businesses. I enjoyed a coffee at Victory 44 which is a trendy coffee bar and restaurant that has been getting good reviews. I then crossed the street to visit Victory's Image which is a colorful woman's clothing shop that sells new and consignment. I loved the pink walls and black and white checked floor. From here I stopped next door to look at the popular Emily's F & M Cafe which has been there for 30 years. As I recall this is the location of the old Florence & Millie's cafe that the Henry students use to frequent in the 1960s.
    
PATRICK HENRY HIGH SCHOOL
    A couple blocks away is my high school, Patrick Henry, 4320 Newton Avenue North, which looks about the same from the outside. It now offers an International Baccalaureate Program that draws students from around the city, and has been named one of the top high schools in the country by
Newsweek Magazine and US News and World Report. The student population is 1,140—42% Asian and 40% Black and 11% White.
     The football stadium area has been expanded to include a field house and indoor skating rink. Directly across the stadium to the south is a rather pleasant Camden Central Pond that includes a one-half mile walking path.
     Fond memories of my parents, grandparents and other relatives always lead to a stop at the Crystal Lake Cemetery. This is one of the oldest and largest cemeteries in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area. It was established in 1890 and occupies 140 acres. I remember coming here one winter day, after a heavy snowstorm, with my brother Fred. We stomped around for a long time digging up the snow with our hands trying to find the tombstones, I don't think we ever found them but, it was rather humorous. When exiting from the cemetery, I noticed my Aunt Ella and Uncle George's old home on Penn Avenue directly across the street. It's still standing, but it is clearly showing its 90 plus years.
    
      I drove by the 27 acre Folwell Park, one of the oldest parks in Minneapolis. It's still a lovely green park with lots of trees and open fields for sports. My friends and I hiked here regularly all winter long to ice skate. We took advantage of the warming house as necessary. The 14 block walk to the park was never a problem for us. For some reason, I don't remember being bothered by cold weather when I was growing up. I guess we just dressed warmly and accepted it as it was. We walked about one mile each way to school from Kindergarten through Senior High. I think the fresh air and exercise improved our ability to sit through classes all day and concentrate.
     Finally, as I leave the area and drive south on Penn Avenue toward Broadway, I pass my Aunt Hazel's old studio, Baxell Photography, 3115 Penn Avenue North. She had the building remodeled in the 1960s choosing a contemporary design with a glass front. It never quite fit with the surrounding older buildings, but she loved it. Today it is a martial arts and weightlifting gym. My Aunt was the first one in the family to ever have a gym membership, I expect she would approve of this new business.

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      I wrote this essay a couple of years ago when visiting Minneapolis. We just returned from another venture and once again I returned to the old neighborhood.
     At a get-together with friends, I was reminded of the old Camden swimming pool that we use to frequent during the summer. It was always packed with kids that were swimming and jumping in all directions. The facility was recently reopened as the Webber Park Natural Swimming Pool, and is the first public natural swimming pool (NSP) to be built in North America. It uses filters and plants to maintain the pool without chemicals.
1920s APARTMENT BUILT BY MY GRANDPA 3847 THOMAS AVE. NO.


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6 comments:

  1. Oh my gosh. Just seeing this post for the first time. It's officially my favorite. I haven't driven by there for 20 years and often wonder about Hazel's old studio. How wonderful!

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  2. I loved reading this...makes me feel like I know some of my mom's old stomping grounds! I was searching for Baxell Studio because they did my parents wedding photographs, which are beautiful! I was hoping against hope that the studio might still be in existence...but so cool that they are your Aunt and Uncle. My mom went to Patrick Henry HS, lived on Penn Ave N, walked to the skating rink, etc. Thanks for the insight from your post. Becky Schnizler (Richmond, Virginia)

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    1. Thanks. I'm glad it brought back memories. I'm going back to Minnesota in August, hopefully, I will find some time to meander through the old neighborhood again.

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  3. It was a good find and read from the internet. I have visited my old childhood neighborhood more when I get older. I lived on 39th and Russell Ave No. from 1963 to 1972. I went to Penn Elementary (now gone) and Patrick Henry when it was 7th through 12th grade. Weird that schools combined so many grades. Then they started busing from North High to Patrick Henry - we moved to Wayzata - what a change for us kids in 8th grade to move. North Mpls has changed and I guess expected. I rode my bike from 39th & Russell to Camden pool almost daily. Skaking in Fowell was the fun highlight. It didn't bother us too much to walk all that way to have fun.

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  4. Just came across your post. It’s hard to realize the cultural change to the neighbor hood. We lived on 36th and Thomas N. My Dad was a teacher ( German/English ) at Henry. When we lived there the area was heavily Catholic and the rest Lutheran with 4-6 kids. Most families were Blue Collar Tradesmen. Patrick Henry High School as of July 1st 2024 is called Camden High School.

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  5. Thanks for the memories. I had a wonderful German teacher at Henry in the early 60s. I think his last name was Mr. Erlichman.

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