VINTAGE ART IN ALBAICIN, GRANADA

One evening in October, we were strolling down a narrow-medieval street in the Albaicin district of Granada, Spain, when we happened to notice that the lights were still on in a small art shop. As we entered, Al Aire Art (Plaza Aliatar, 16), we noticed beautiful intricate honeycomb tiles that reminded us of the artwork we had seen earlier that day at the Moorish palace of Alhambra. We were greeted by the artist that made them, and he cordially invited us into his small workshop.

He described in detail the special techniques used to produce the tiles that are similar to those used by Hispanic Muslim artists when designing the Alhambra in the 13^th century. They are made in geometric shapes known as honeycomb work with intricate detailing. The fascinating old process included special molds, high-quality plaster, an egg tempering, hand-mixed paints, and other special tools.

The beautiful pieces of art are only sold in that little store on the hill in Albaicin—one of my regrets is that I did not purchase one (or maybe two) that evening. Perhaps, I was worrying a little bit too much about “traveling light.”

The Albaicin (Albayzin in Moorish) with its cobblestone streets, Moorish-style houses, and vistas is the oldest district of Granada. Located directly across from it, on another hill, sits the famous Alhambra. Both places have been chosen as UNESCO World Heritage sites. 

The young man that we spoke to said that he moved to Albaicin about six years ago, and he stays because there is something magical about it. I will continue to remember this quiet place, high on a hill above Granada, as magical too. 
(Writing about travel when you can't travel and worst of all when people are suffering all over the world caused me to hesitate about making this post. However, I believe that we still need to make the best of every day and as long as remembering and sharing the good times makes the day a little easier, I will continue to write.)

RELATED POST: Azelejos & A Vintage Tile Shop in Faro Portugal, Oct. 12, 2016

VERBATIM BOOKS - A VINTAGE BOOKSTORE IN NORTH PARK, SAN DIEGO

In my search for the best vintage shops in San Diego, I recently discovered Verbatim Books in North Park. Located in a former A&P Tea Company grocery building from the 1930s, this unique old store is a great example of why independent bookstores are making a comeback.

Just stepping into the store is a worthwhile experience. If you have time to hang out for a while, it's even better. Many of the old books are artistically arranged with shelves devoted to a rainbow of colors and others arranged to spell the name of the bookstore in large letters. The walls are covered with eclectic collections of old maps, antique doors, artwork by local artists, and photographers. There are comfortable sitting areas that include an interesting cushioned chair designed with books. It's well organized—nothing like the dusty and cluttered used bookstores from the past. There's also a cozy nook devoted to children; complete with stuffed animals, games, and books.

The bookstore opened in 2015 and expanded to its current location at 3793 30^th Street about one year ago. Besides having a large selection of gently-used and rare books, they carry hundreds of books by local authors. Its unique Local Author Program gives locals, residing in San Diego or Tijuana, an opportunity to put their book or zine in the store for sale on consignment. They also buy and trade books and host a range of free events from poetry readings to square dancing. 

Verbatim Books offers much more than just a place to buy a product—it gives a sense of community, a place for conversation, a chance to buy locally, and a welcoming environment to search for books of yesteryear. With no online inventory available, the emphasis is on perusing the shelves to discover the joy of finding something new and different to read.

Do you have a favorite bookstore? Please tell us about it in the comment section below.

Since writing this article, most of the independent bookstores have been forced to shut down due to Covid. Here is a related article that was written on March 23, 2020: How bookshops are helping with isolation by Clare Thorp.

SAN DIEGO TRAVEL & ADVENTURE SHOW 2020

A great start to the new year is a visit to the San Diego Travel and Adventure Show. This years' event was held on January 18-19 at the Convention Center in downtown San Diego. Although I've attended many times before, I still get excited to discover what's new in the travel industry, mingle with travel enthusiasts, and to plan some new adventures.

Featuring 25 speakers, 140 exhibitors, 12 dance groups, door prizes, and a coconut tree climb, there was something for everyone—including my two granddaughters who were entertained for hours by the dancers and musicians on the Global Beats Stage. Click here for the dates and locations of future shows that might be coming to a location near you.

Everyone leaves the show with their favorite memories and I will share mine:

                    MOST INFORMATIVE SPEAKER:

Ralph Valesco, “Creating Great Memories of your Travels (with any Camera!).” Ralph is one of the top 100 photographers in the world and getting photo advice from him is something you don't want to miss. His eBook: “52 Categories of a Shot List,” available for free on his website, is truly inspirational. Ralph also leads cultural and photo enrichment tours to places throughout the world.

                               BEST FREE SAMPLE:

I didn't expect to learn about coffee at the travel show, but when I stopped at the Indonesia booth they were giving away free samples of Tentera Sumatra Coffee from Indonesia. They also gave us a single-serve pour-over coffee packet to bring home. The take-home sample turned out to be one of the best pour-over coffees I've tasted. I will look for the Tentera coffee kiosk (729 N. Vignes St. East Portal) near the Union Station in Los Angeles next time I'm there.

                              

                               MOST ENTERTAINING:

The music and dance group from the Cook Islands that performed on the Global Beats Stage. This wonderfully talented group of nine dancers had just flown over 4,000 miles from the South Pacific to attend this event.

                            FAVORITE TRAVEL GURU:

Straight talking Emmy Award-Winning Reporter and Producer, Peter Greenberg is one of America's most recognized, honored and respected front-line travel news journalists. I never pass up a chance to listen to him at the travel shows. If you want to learn great travel secrets from a master traveler, he is the one to listen to.

        THE BEST FREE GIVEAWAY (THAT I MISSED):

Gate 1 Travel's offer of a free trip for two on a seven-night Danube River Cruise with an upgraded room.

                 TRAVEL ADVICE FROM A LOCAL:

We were lucky this year because there was a representative from Rijeka, Croatia at the Katarina Line-Incoming Croatia booth—a place we will be traveling to this year. It's always helpful to meet a local like Daniel Hauptfeld, Marketing Director, who gave us some great advice and a much-needed map of Croatia. 

                                FAVORITE QUOTE:

“Buy yourself a world atlas and put it by your bedside.”
                                                                -Peter Greenberg

               A FAVORITE PHOTO TO TAKE HOME:

Just as we were leaving the show, my granddaughter, Mila, who was in control, as usual, tugged us over to the colorful Redding, California booth to get a photo taken. She chose the background and props for the photo. Redding is located near the Cascade Mountain (background) in northwestern California, and it looks like a great destination for hiking, fishing, and kayaking.

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CADIZ, SPAIN - The Ancient City with 126 Watchtowers

While traveling through Andalusia during October, one of our favorite discoveries was the city of Cadiz (pop.117,000) in southwestern Spain. This intriguing place sits on a peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean and has been inhabited for more than 3,000 years—making it one of the oldest cities in Europe. 

The Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, and North African Muslims who once ruled this city have left behind a hidden gem that is made for days of walking and exploration. It is filled with ancient winding streets, plazas, arches, castles, fortresses, ocean walkways, beaches, watchtowers, and well-preserved architecture.

We stayed for six nights at the Hotel Monte Puertatierra that was conveniently located near miles of ocean walkway and the old walled city. Cadiz was also a good base for our day trips to El Puerto de Santa Maria and Jerez de la Frontera.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, Cadiz was one of the most beautiful cities in Europe and home to many wealthy merchants. Located on the prosperous trading route between Spain and the West Indies, it attracted people from all over the world. The merchants built watchtowers on top of their homes to view their ships as they entered and departed the harbor. The city is still home to 126 of the original 160 watchtowers.

The best place to learn more about them is to visit the Torre Tavira, an original tower, that is located in the center of the old town and open to the public. It offers a spectacular panoramic view of the city (after walking up ten flights of stairs), exhibition rooms and the camera obscura for viewing the city below.

On one of our many days of meandering through the city, we happened to come upon the ancient Theater of Cadiz that dates back to the first century BC. It is the second-largest theater ever built in the Roman Empire—surpassed only by the Theater of Pompeii in Italy. It was only recently discovered in 1980 due to a major fire at this location that led to an excavation. Entry to this well-preserved wonder is free.

The combination of an ancient city to explore and wonderful sea walks make this undiscovered city in southwestern Spain a special place to visit—without the overcrowding that is typical of many tourist destinations.

Related Posts: Seville - A Journey through Andalusia 11/7/19
                        Ronda - A Journey through Andalusia 11/20/19
                        Gibraltar - A Small British Territory on the South Tip of Spain 12/12/19
                     

RED DOORS & HOLIDAY GREETINGS

Wishing everyone a wonderful holiday season and a New Year filled with many open doors and new adventures.  

GIBRALTAR - A SMALL BRITISH TERRITORY ON THE SOUTHERN TIP OF SPAIN

Located on the southernmost tip of Spain is the small British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar (pop.32,000) –an interesting stopover when touring Andalusia, and a must if you want to get a close-up view of the famous Rock and experience a little bit of Britain at the same time.

   When we arrived in Gibraltar, late on a Sunday afternoon in October, all was quiet and we asked the cab driver where everyone was. He said that the locals typically leave on the weekends to visit other places in southern Spain. We stayed for two nights at the Weststone serviced apartments. We rated it a 10 out of 10 on booking.com and enjoyed our room on the fifth floor with a harbor view.

Everything went smoothly until we discovered that we forgot to bring a British electrical adapter. We headed out quickly to find a store where we might purchase one, that would also be open on a Sunday evening. It was not easy, however, we finally found an open shop that seemed to sell everything, including an adapter so Ron could do some work.

About one-half of the land in this small (2.6 square miles) country consists of steep cliffs and a natural park reserve located on the mountain area that is referred to as the Rock of Gibraltar. About 300 Barbary macaques (also known as the Rock apes) roam freely on the reserve—the only place in Europe where you can hang out with monkeys outside of a zoo.
On our first day, we headed out to ride the Gibraltar Cable Car to the top of the Rock (1,350 feet) with plans to walk down. We arrived midmorning when all of the buses decide to drop tourists off and there was more than an hour wait to purchase tickets. Fortunately, there was a separate entrance for ticket holders and we were able to use our cell phone to purchase tickets online (thanks to T-Mobile) and to avoid the wait.

     Once we reached the top, we could see Morocco, Spain, Algeciras, the Strait of Gibraltar, cruise port and much more. We were also greeted by the Barbary macaques. There were signs all over warning you not to feed them and to keep all food hidden. As soon as we arrived we noticed one of the little guys jump on the shoulder of a nearby tourist, open his backpack, and steal food from it. We also noticed a tour guide feeding the monkeys for entertainment which is definitely not a good idea for the health of the animals or the safety of visitors. 

   

  Apparently, there were snakes on the reserve as well—here is a sign that we noticed while hiking down the mountain.

After enjoying the views and exploring the old abandoned sites and caves on the top, we decided to start working our way down. The trails were not well marked and we found the rocks and steep steps to be a bit unstable. We preferred to walk on the paved road. However, it was heavily trafficked by tour vans and taxis. 

Gibraltar was part of Spain until the early 1700s. Great Britain was then ceded formal control of the territory by the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. During World War II, it was an important base for the Royal Navy as it controlled all naval traffic into and out of the Mediterranean Sea from the Atlantic Ocean.

Today the country is self-governing, except for defense and foreign policy, and is home to a British naval and military garrison. There is no large scale agricultural or industrial activity here. The economy is based mainly on tourism, online gambling, financial services, and cargo ship refueling. The Strait of Gibraltar is one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.

When we departed for Spain the next day, we went through security and showed our passports (no visa required) then walked another couple of blocks to the La Linea Bus terminal for a ride to our next destination, Cadiz.

We continued to view Gibraltar from afar as we traveled further along the Mediterranean Sea with a pleasant memory of our visit. We also left with a slightly new perspective of the old saying: “solid as the Rock of Gibraltar.”

RONDA - A JOURNEY THROUGH ANDALUSIA

RONDA

Ronda (pop. 35,000), established in the sixth century, is one of the oldest of the Pueblo Blancos in Andalusia. It is also considered the most romantic and picturesque of all the White Villages. Located 85 miles southeast of Seville, it is easily accessible by bus.

Many years ago I stopped in Ronda for a short visit, and I remember thinking how lovely

it was and that I would like to return someday. My dream came true on our recent excursion through Andalusia that included a three-night stay here. It is more crowded now, however, it still has the spectacular El Tajo gorge, whitewashed houses, scenic walks, olives trees, mountain views, and a fascinating old town to explore. 

After our 2-hour bus ride from Seville to Ronda, we walked a short distance from the bus station to the Duplex Relax Ronda that is located in the new town. It was reserved through booking.com and we rated it a 10 out of 10.

Ronda is often referred to as the "bridge town" because it has three bridges that connect the old and new city. The most famous is the Nueva Bridge that was completed in 1794 and rises 390 feet above the canyon floor. Walking across this bridge offers a spectacular view of the River Guadalevin and El Tajo gorge below. The steep limestone cliffs are dotted with Spanish fir trees, rugged ridges, and a variety of nesting birds. Further upstream, near the old city walls, are the bridges: San Miguel (Arab Bridge) and the Puente Viejo that date back to the 12th and 16th centuries. 
"It is the wonder of Ronda, it is the Bridge,.........The Bridge is Ronda."
                                                                -Anatol Demidoff (1847)

After enjoying the spectacular views from the Nueva Bridge, we headed out to explore the numerous other miradors (viewpoints in Spanish), walkways, plazas, and hikes that are just as splendid. The more you walk around and view this lovely old village from different vantage points, both from above and below, the better it gets—and the more likely you will remember it for years to come. A sunset walk down the gorge on the Puerta de Almocabar (Arab Gate) path was a favorite of mine.

Ronda is home to the oldest bullfighting ring in Spain, Plaza de Toros de Ronda. Built in 1784, it was frequented in the 1950s by Ernest Hemingway and his friend Orson Wells. They both loved Ronda and spent many summers here, frequenting the bars and writing about its beauty and famous bullfighting traditions. The historical bullfight, Corrida Goyesca, continues to take place early September at this ring. The bullfighters, who are on foot, dress up in costumes reminiscent of the paintings Francisco Goya and the young ladies are in their best feria dresses. It would be quite a show.

One of Hemingway's quotes: “There is one town....to see your first bullfight in if you are only going to see one and that is Ronda.....”  

After a few days in Ronda, we boarded a scenic train en route to Gibraltar. At the first two train stops, after departing, we noticed some wonderful walks along a river and hikers disembarking to take advantage of them—just a pleasant reminder that I could have happily spent a few more days exploring this little area of the world.

Related Posts: Seville - A Journey through Andalusia 11/7/19