RONDA - A JOURNEY THROUGH ANDALUSIA

RONDA

Ronda (pop. 35,000), established in the sixth century, is one of the oldest of the Pueblo Blancos in Andalusia. It is also considered the most romantic and picturesque of all the White Villages. Located 85 miles southeast of Seville, it is easily accessible by bus.

Many years ago I stopped in Ronda for a short visit, and I remember thinking how lovely

it was and that I would like to return someday. My dream came true on our recent excursion through Andalusia that included a three-night stay here. It is more crowded now, however, it still has the spectacular El Tajo gorge, whitewashed houses, scenic walks, olives trees, mountain views, and a fascinating old town to explore. 

After our 2-hour bus ride from Seville to Ronda, we walked a short distance from the bus station to the Duplex Relax Ronda that is located in the new town. It was reserved through booking.com and we rated it a 10 out of 10.

Ronda is often referred to as the "bridge town" because it has three bridges that connect the old and new city. The most famous is the Nueva Bridge that was completed in 1794 and rises 390 feet above the canyon floor. Walking across this bridge offers a spectacular view of the River Guadalevin and El Tajo gorge below. The steep limestone cliffs are dotted with Spanish fir trees, rugged ridges, and a variety of nesting birds. Further upstream, near the old city walls, are the bridges: San Miguel (Arab Bridge) and the Puente Viejo that date back to the 12th and 16th centuries. 
"It is the wonder of Ronda, it is the Bridge,.........The Bridge is Ronda."
                                                                -Anatol Demidoff (1847)

After enjoying the spectacular views from the Nueva Bridge, we headed out to explore the numerous other miradors (viewpoints in Spanish), walkways, plazas, and hikes that are just as splendid. The more you walk around and view this lovely old village from different vantage points, both from above and below, the better it gets—and the more likely you will remember it for years to come. A sunset walk down the gorge on the Puerta de Almocabar (Arab Gate) path was a favorite of mine.

Ronda is home to the oldest bullfighting ring in Spain, Plaza de Toros de Ronda. Built in 1784, it was frequented in the 1950s by Ernest Hemingway and his friend Orson Wells. They both loved Ronda and spent many summers here, frequenting the bars and writing about its beauty and famous bullfighting traditions. The historical bullfight, Corrida Goyesca, continues to take place early September at this ring. The bullfighters, who are on foot, dress up in costumes reminiscent of the paintings Francisco Goya and the young ladies are in their best feria dresses. It would be quite a show.

One of Hemingway's quotes: “There is one town....to see your first bullfight in if you are only going to see one and that is Ronda.....”  

After a few days in Ronda, we boarded a scenic train en route to Gibraltar. At the first two train stops, after departing, we noticed some wonderful walks along a river and hikers disembarking to take advantage of them—just a pleasant reminder that I could have happily spent a few more days exploring this little area of the world.

Related Posts: Seville - A Journey through Andalusia 11/7/19