VALLE DE FASSA - THE DOLOMITES

THE DOLOMITES

"The most beautiful architecture on earth."  --Le Corbusier, Swiss Architect

    

     The Dolomites, with their impressive peaks, jagged ridges, rock pinnacles, deep gorges, and steep rock faces, lie in the eastern section of the northern Italian Alps. The highest point is Punta Penia (10,968 feet) in the Marmolada range—often referred to as the “Queen of the Dolomites.” We recently spent a few days in May in the Val di Fassa—home to this spectacular range.

    

VALLE DI FASSA

Our base was the village of Vigo di Fassa (pop. 1,256)—one of the smallest of the seven municipalities in the valley. We arrived by bus from Bolzano—a two-hour ride providing spectacular scenery and dozens of hairpin turns as we rose 4,000 feet in elevation. We were dropped off about four blocks from the Mason La Zondra, our apartment for the next few nights. Although an uphill walk, the location was convenient to the bus stop for our daily excursions.

     We chose to stay in Vigo because it was recommended by friends who especially liked the cable car up to the Ciampedie Valley. It departs from the town center. Unfortunately, we didn't get a chance to enjoy the gentle hikes on top because the cable car was closed until June 1. As a matter of fact, most of the town of Vigo was closed in May; we were lucky to even find a restaurant open. It seems that the locals like to take vacation between the busy winter and summer seasons.

    

AVISIO RIVER

It was still beautiful, and we could easily ride buses to the larger and more active villages in the valley. We also loved the walks along the Avisio River that flows through the valley. I enjoyed an early morning hike to the historic Santa Giuliana church that is perched on a hill overlooking Vigo. 

    

CANAZEI 

The ski and summer resort of Canazei (pop. 2,000) is located at one end of the 20-mile long valley, easily accessible by bus and bike. The village, with its colorfully decorated houses and old wooden barns, is surrounded by the majestic Dolomites. It is home to the largest ski area in Europe. Cable cars take you to the top and were operating on the day we were there. It was well worth the ride up because it provided one of the most spectacular and unforgettable mountain views I've ever seen.

    

GIRO D' ITALIA

We didn't realize, until arriving in Italy, that the Giro d'Italia (Tour of Italy) was passing through Val di Fassa while were were there. In Europe, this 21-day bike race is second only to the Tour de France in popularity, and it was celebrating its 100th Anniversary.

     We decided to head over to Canazei to see what takes place in a

DECORATED PINK BICYCLES

100TH ANNIVERSARY GIRO D' ITALIA

small village that is honored with the Giros' Stage 17 finish line. When we arrived, there were already four bands setting up and playing music on this sun-filled morning. Flowers and decorated pink bicycles, honoring the pink jerseys worn by the daily winners, adorned the town. Vendors with food, beverages, and t-shirts lined the streets. The “people watching” kept getting better as hundreds of people descended upon the town to see the best bikers in the world roll in. They began arriving about 4 p.m. after the completion of another challenging day of pedaling 160 miles through the peaks and valleys of the Italian Alps. They still had four days remaining before the finish line in Milan.

Related Posts: Castelrotto, Italy South Tyrol - July 2015
                        Haybaths, Dolomites, Northern Italy - July 2015
                        Merano, South Tyrol Italy - June 2017

RACERS DEPARTING CANZEI

MERANO, SOUTH TYROL ITALY - A HIKER'S PARADISE

PASSER RIVER- MERANO ITALY

“Sometimes you will never know the value of a moment until it becomes a memory.”

                                                                                                             -Dr. Seuss

     We just returned from Italy, and I've been thinking about some of my favorite places. I remember the charming old city of Merano--a health resort that's located in a lush valley, surrounded by the Italian Alps, in northern Italy. 

There are a lot of things I love about this place, but what really stands out are the lovely walks. This “city of flowers,” located on the roaring Passer River, is full of promenades and gentle paths. They offer incredible views of the river and nearby mountain ranges and have interesting names like: Passer Promenade, Gif Promenade, Summer Promenade,Tappeinerweg Trail, and Prince's Castle.

SAN LEONARDO, SOUTH TYROL

     When a person tires of the nearby walks (if that's possible), they can take advantage of the extensive transport system to access more trails and bikeways. We purchased the seven day pass called the Mobilcard (28 euros) that grants unlimited access to all public transport in South Tyrol—one of the best deals anywhere. Hundreds of trails were available to us, and the best part is that we could return by bus or train when tired.

     The old city of Merano has 900 year old porticoes, medieval walls, arches, and a 19^th century Kurhaus. There are sculptures, flowers, museums, and mature cypress trees to enjoy. It's also home to the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff, one of Italy's most beautiful gardens.

     A visit would not be complete without experiencing the Merano Thermal Baths—a modern oasis in the heart of the city that has 15 indoor and outdoor pools, eight saunas. mountain views, a park, fitness center, and more. The health benefits of this area were discovered by European nobility in the early 1800s. In addition, the Austrian Empress Sissi arrived for the first time in 1870 with her imperial household of over a hundred. She spent nine months here recuperating from tuberculosis. After that time, she made repeated visits to Merano. One of the many trails to enjoy is Sissi's Path that highlights some of her favorite spots. 

      Merano is one of those special places that I could linger for a month or longer and the month of May would be perfect. The weather is cool, the days are long and the flowers are blooming. 

                                                                 * * * 

   

     Meran/Merano (pop. 40,000) is located in the Trentino-South Tyrol region of northern Italy. From the eighth century until 1918, it was part of Austria-Hungary. It was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy in 1919. Public signs are in two languages: German and Italian. Meran is German and Merano is Italian. More than half of the population speaks German. The Dolomite mountains cover most of the area. South Tyrol is also among the wealthiest regions in Italy.

Related Posts: Castelrotto, Italy South Tyrol, July 2015
                        Hay Baths, Dolomites, Northern Italy, July 2015
                     

STONE BRIDGE 

BUILT IN 1616 BY ROMANS

CITY GATES 

MERANO'S OLD TOWN

THE KURHAUS