RED DOORS & HOLIDAY GREETINGS

Wishing everyone a wonderful holiday season and a New Year filled with many open doors and new adventures.  

GIBRALTAR - A SMALL BRITISH TERRITORY ON THE SOUTHERN TIP OF SPAIN

Located on the southernmost tip of Spain is the small British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar (pop.32,000) –an interesting stopover when touring Andalusia, and a must if you want to get a close-up view of the famous Rock and experience a little bit of Britain at the same time.

   When we arrived in Gibraltar, late on a Sunday afternoon in October, all was quiet and we asked the cab driver where everyone was. He said that the locals typically leave on the weekends to visit other places in southern Spain. We stayed for two nights at the Weststone serviced apartments. We rated it a 10 out of 10 on booking.com and enjoyed our room on the fifth floor with a harbor view.

Everything went smoothly until we discovered that we forgot to bring a British electrical adapter. We headed out quickly to find a store where we might purchase one, that would also be open on a Sunday evening. It was not easy, however, we finally found an open shop that seemed to sell everything, including an adapter so Ron could do some work.

About one-half of the land in this small (2.6 square miles) country consists of steep cliffs and a natural park reserve located on the mountain area that is referred to as the Rock of Gibraltar. About 300 Barbary macaques (also known as the Rock apes) roam freely on the reserve—the only place in Europe where you can hang out with monkeys outside of a zoo.
On our first day, we headed out to ride the Gibraltar Cable Car to the top of the Rock (1,350 feet) with plans to walk down. We arrived midmorning when all of the buses decide to drop tourists off and there was more than an hour wait to purchase tickets. Fortunately, there was a separate entrance for ticket holders and we were able to use our cell phone to purchase tickets online (thanks to T-Mobile) and to avoid the wait.

     Once we reached the top, we could see Morocco, Spain, Algeciras, the Strait of Gibraltar, cruise port and much more. We were also greeted by the Barbary macaques. There were signs all over warning you not to feed them and to keep all food hidden. As soon as we arrived we noticed one of the little guys jump on the shoulder of a nearby tourist, open his backpack, and steal food from it. We also noticed a tour guide feeding the monkeys for entertainment which is definitely not a good idea for the health of the animals or the safety of visitors. 

   

  Apparently, there were snakes on the reserve as well—here is a sign that we noticed while hiking down the mountain.

After enjoying the views and exploring the old abandoned sites and caves on the top, we decided to start working our way down. The trails were not well marked and we found the rocks and steep steps to be a bit unstable. We preferred to walk on the paved road. However, it was heavily trafficked by tour vans and taxis. 

Gibraltar was part of Spain until the early 1700s. Great Britain was then ceded formal control of the territory by the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. During World War II, it was an important base for the Royal Navy as it controlled all naval traffic into and out of the Mediterranean Sea from the Atlantic Ocean.

Today the country is self-governing, except for defense and foreign policy, and is home to a British naval and military garrison. There is no large scale agricultural or industrial activity here. The economy is based mainly on tourism, online gambling, financial services, and cargo ship refueling. The Strait of Gibraltar is one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.

When we departed for Spain the next day, we went through security and showed our passports (no visa required) then walked another couple of blocks to the La Linea Bus terminal for a ride to our next destination, Cadiz.

We continued to view Gibraltar from afar as we traveled further along the Mediterranean Sea with a pleasant memory of our visit. We also left with a slightly new perspective of the old saying: “solid as the Rock of Gibraltar.”

RONDA - A JOURNEY THROUGH ANDALUSIA

RONDA

Ronda (pop. 35,000), established in the sixth century, is one of the oldest of the Pueblo Blancos in Andalusia. It is also considered the most romantic and picturesque of all the White Villages. Located 85 miles southeast of Seville, it is easily accessible by bus.

Many years ago I stopped in Ronda for a short visit, and I remember thinking how lovely

it was and that I would like to return someday. My dream came true on our recent excursion through Andalusia that included a three-night stay here. It is more crowded now, however, it still has the spectacular El Tajo gorge, whitewashed houses, scenic walks, olives trees, mountain views, and a fascinating old town to explore. 

After our 2-hour bus ride from Seville to Ronda, we walked a short distance from the bus station to the Duplex Relax Ronda that is located in the new town. It was reserved through booking.com and we rated it a 10 out of 10.

Ronda is often referred to as the "bridge town" because it has three bridges that connect the old and new city. The most famous is the Nueva Bridge that was completed in 1794 and rises 390 feet above the canyon floor. Walking across this bridge offers a spectacular view of the River Guadalevin and El Tajo gorge below. The steep limestone cliffs are dotted with Spanish fir trees, rugged ridges, and a variety of nesting birds. Further upstream, near the old city walls, are the bridges: San Miguel (Arab Bridge) and the Puente Viejo that date back to the 12th and 16th centuries. 
"It is the wonder of Ronda, it is the Bridge,.........The Bridge is Ronda."
                                                                -Anatol Demidoff (1847)

After enjoying the spectacular views from the Nueva Bridge, we headed out to explore the numerous other miradors (viewpoints in Spanish), walkways, plazas, and hikes that are just as splendid. The more you walk around and view this lovely old village from different vantage points, both from above and below, the better it gets—and the more likely you will remember it for years to come. A sunset walk down the gorge on the Puerta de Almocabar (Arab Gate) path was a favorite of mine.

Ronda is home to the oldest bullfighting ring in Spain, Plaza de Toros de Ronda. Built in 1784, it was frequented in the 1950s by Ernest Hemingway and his friend Orson Wells. They both loved Ronda and spent many summers here, frequenting the bars and writing about its beauty and famous bullfighting traditions. The historical bullfight, Corrida Goyesca, continues to take place early September at this ring. The bullfighters, who are on foot, dress up in costumes reminiscent of the paintings Francisco Goya and the young ladies are in their best feria dresses. It would be quite a show.

One of Hemingway's quotes: “There is one town....to see your first bullfight in if you are only going to see one and that is Ronda.....”  

After a few days in Ronda, we boarded a scenic train en route to Gibraltar. At the first two train stops, after departing, we noticed some wonderful walks along a river and hikers disembarking to take advantage of them—just a pleasant reminder that I could have happily spent a few more days exploring this little area of the world.

Related Posts: Seville - A Journey through Andalusia 11/7/19

SEVILLE - A JOURNEY THROUGH ANDALUSIA

PLAZA DE ESPANA, SEVILLE, SPAIN

Ron and I recently traveled through Andalusia, Spain making many stops along the way. We planned the four-week trip ourselves and took risks, as usual, having never traveled this route before. It turned out to be one of my favorite journeys, until the last two nights in Madrid (not Andalusia). My bag was stolen by one of those slick thieves that you hear about, but somehow think you are too savvy to be a victim. More about that in a later post, however, one of the losses was my travel journal and notes. Consequently, I will be sharing more photos and writing less--maybe that's a good thing. 

We arrived in Madrid and flew directly to Seville (pop.700,000), allowing two hours between flights. We stayed for three nights at the Sleepin Sevilla Arenal apartment located in the old town. It was reserved through booking.com and we rated it a 10 out of 10. 

Seville was taken by the Moors, during the conquest of Hispalis in 712AD. The Moorish influences are still present today in the buildings, monuments, gardens, and parks. I loved this city when I visited 16 years ago and I still feel the same. There's something a little calmer and more peaceful here than other cities. 

PLAZA DE ESPANA, SEVILLE, SPAIN

Seville is the warmest city in continental Europe.  In October the afternoons were still in the 80s, however, the mornings and evenings were perfect with many people sitting outside in cafes and parks. 

ALCAZAR OF SEVILLE

A visit to the Alcazar of Seville is usually on everyone's list of things to do in Seville and for good reason. We stood in line one hour before the royal palace opened to get tickets to enter. (They tell you to order them ahead online to avoid the wait--good advice.)  Once inside, you can stay as long as you wish. We were there for about three hours including time for coffee in the gardens. The palace is in the Mudejar architectural style, with many influences from Moorish and Christian culture. 

ALCAZAR OF SEVILLE

We also visited the Seville Cathedral, General Archive of the Indies, and walked along the Guadalquivir River. Another favorite place is the Plaza de Espana that was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929.  

ENTRANCE TO THE ALCAZAR OF SEVILLE

THE PORTAL OF THE PRIVILEGE - ALCAZAR SEVILLE

ALCAZAR SEVILLE

TILES ALCAZAR OF SEVILLE

TILES - ALCAZAR 

Related Posts: Ronda - A Journey through Andalusia  11/20/19

"PENELOPE" - A STORY OF LOVE AND LOYALTY.

A stunning sculpture of Penelope (2009) by Temecula artist, Michael Stutz, now stands majestically at the northeast corner of Tidelands Park in Coronado, California. She faces the San Diego Bay with a view of the seagoing ships that pass by daily—an appropriate setting for Penelope who waited 20 years for her husband, Odysseus, to return from the Trojan War. Printed along the bottom of the display is a famous quote from The Odyssey: “Weaving by day, Penelope would be forced to choose a new husband when her tapestry was complete. But all the while she waited, unraveling her work by night, steadfastly sure of Ulysses' return.” According to the epic poem, she denied 108 suitors until her husband finally returned, and they lived happily ever after.

The appearance of this seven-foot-tall sculpture varies with the time of day and the perspective that you might be viewing it from. It was hand-fabricated with long strips of bronze metal that appear to be weaved together, symbolizing the story of her weaving by day. Spectators can also climb inside of Penelope's head and look out at the Bay through her eyes—children especially like this experience. My granddaughter enjoyed sitting on the small built-in bench she found inside the head. 

Penelope was originally on display at the Embarcadero until it was removed for the construction of Ruocco Park and stored for eight years, awaiting a new home. Thanks, to the Port of San Diego Waterfront Arts & Activation department for having the foresight to choose this lovely location and to provide another wonderful work of art for the public to enjoy for years to come. Not surprisingly, the sculpture of Penelope has already been referred to as the masthead of Tidelands Park.

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WAITING FOR SHIPS TO RETURN SAFELY

2020 CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC

"Find the Wallace Fountains Find Paris: 21 Self-Guided Walks" by Barbara Lambesis

It's not too often that I get a chance to visit with an old friend from high school. So when I recently received a call from Barbara Lambesis, who was in town and wanted to meet for lunch, I was excited. I just had a feeling that my brilliant and creative old friend would be up to something new and interesting as usual. Sure enough, I was so impressed with her recent endeavor that I have decided to share it with my readers. She has written a new book that should be a must for anyone visiting Paris that loves to walk and discover new places.

Barbara has spent a lot of time in Paris during recent years where she has been busy writing, discovering, and photographing. She recently published a new book entitled Find the Wallace Fountains Find Paris: 21 Self-guided Walks. The guidebook leads you to places that are often off the beaten track with fascinating descriptions of sights along the way. In addition, by the time you are finished with all 21 walks, you will have seen more than 100 vintage fountains that were planned and donated by Sir Richard Wallace in the late 1800s. 

Sir Richard Wallace, an Englishman, funded the artwork, design, and building of these wonderful fountains. He generously gave them to the people of Paris providing free and clean drinking water to all. They were a blessing to the poor, who rarely had access to affordable water, and were suffering health consequences as a result. In place of water, they were drinking wine (way too much) because it was much cheaper than water.

The book is available for purchase on the website wallacefountains.org. All proceeds are donated to the Society of the Wallace Fountains whose mission is to promote, preserve and protect the Wallace Fountains of Paris. The 21 Self-guided Walks can also be downloaded for free (donation suggested) at the same website. If you are going to Paris, be sure to take a walk to find the Wallace Fountains and discover the real Paris. 

                   “I must keep on going—there's so much more to do."

                                                                            -Quote from Barbara's mother

A WALK IN PIAZZA DEL POPOLO - ROME

PIAZZA DEL POPOLO

The towns and cities of Italy are known for their charming piazzas or public squares. They are often adorned with decorative fountains and statues and surrounded by historical buildings. Rome, with a population of almost three million, has many urban piazza's—each unique in its own way.

My favorite is the Piazza del Popolo—a place that I walked through daily for a month. Most of the time, as I passed through the lively piazza, I was heading out or returning from an excursion to the metro, a coffee bar, grocery store, or a leisurely walk in the park. However, sometimes I lingered just to take it all in: observing the people, listening to the street music, watching the children chase gigantic bubbles (thanks to the “bubble man”), and the young man trying to give out “free” roses to the ladies. No matter what the time of day, it was always entertaining.

The people and activities varied by the moment. However, the historical significance and beauty of the Piazza del Popolo have remained the same for centuries. A history lesson of ancient Rome is on display in any direction you chose to gaze.

PORTA DEL POPOLO

EGYPTIAN OBELISK OF RAMES III

To the north is the Porta del Popolo—this was the main entrance to the city during the Roman Empire when it was called Porta Flaminia. The gate was rebuilt in the 15th century by Pope Sixtus IV on the same site as the ancient Roman gate. The outside wall is the work of Italian architect, Nanni di Baccio Bigio and the inner interior facade was completed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in 1655.

In the center of the piazza is the famous Egyptian obelisk of Ramses II—the second oldest and one of the tallest obelisks in Rome. It was brought from Egypt to Rome in 10 BC and was originally set up in Circus Maximus and moved to its current location in 1589. It is surrounded by four fascinating lion fountains with water spouting out of their mouths. The steps surrounding obelisk provide a great place to sit and enjoy the surroundings of the large piazza that is more oval than square and closed to motorized traffic.

Looking south. toward the medieval city center. are the fascinating baroque churches of Santa Maria in Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli. Built in the 17th century, they are often cited as “twins,” due to their similar external appearance.

The Santa Maria del Popolo (1477) sits next to the Porta del Popolo, it was the first church for the majority of travelers entering the city and the most treasured church in the piazza. The entire chapel was designed by Raphael. It is also the home of two Caravaggio masterpieces.

Many old and interesting streets extend out from the Piazza—my favorite is the artist street called Via Margutta. This short, tucked-away street was once home to Fellini, Rembrandt, Picasso, Simone de Beauvoir, and Marcello Mastrianni. The nearby Bar Canova, on the southeast corner of the piazza, is where Fellini is said to have stopped by every morning for his coffee. 

On our last morning in Rome, I made a final hike up the steps to Pincian Hill for one last view of the Piazza Popolo and city from above. It was peaceful. The one thing that I learned about Rome is that wherever you were, and however crowded it might be, you could almost always walk, just a little farther, to find a quieter area to enjoy.

BRIDGES OF ROME & THE TIBER RIVER

The Tiber River winds its way through Rome with 20 bridges connecting the two sides. A favorite pastime in the city is crossing over one bridge, walking a short distance, and walking back to the other side on the next bridge. “Crossing the Tiber” is also a term used by the Romans to indicate the conversion of a Protestant to Catholicism.

Each bridge is unique. The oldest is the Ponte Fabricio that is basically the same as when it was built in 62 BC. One of the most beautiful is the Ponte Sant'Angelo, a pedestrian-only bridge, that was built by Roman Emperor Hadrian in 134 AD. It is adorned along the sides with ten large statues of angels holding instruments of the Passion—all designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

It's fun to climb down the many stairs to be closer to the river and then walk or bike directly alongside it. This is the best way to avoid the street noise and to see the bridges from below. You feel as if you are walking in a remote area rather than in the middle of a city with a population of almost three million. Stairs are conveniently located at each bridge.

If it happens to be raining, which it seemed to do a lot during our recent May visit, there are miles of old eucalyptus trees that line the high river walk and offer protection from the rain. One day, I walked for over a mile staying dry, despite the steady rainfall—still enjoying a pleasant view of the river.

The Tiber River is known for its many twists and turns which means that it is never the shortest route between two points. However, when it came to navigating the city I still found it helpful at times. We were staying within a block of the river and I always felt confident that I could find my way home by following the river—a valuable tool when your sense of direction is not the best.

The Tiber has caused serious flooding throughout history resulting in large accumulations of silt build up in the many low lying areas of Rome. Consequently, many ancient ruins were buried under the mud for centuries until they were exposed by excavation. The last disastrous flood took place in 1870; it resulted in over 14 feet of water in the Piazza Del Pantheon and in many other areas of the city flood plain. 

In 1876, the government decided to take drastic action to resolve this centuries-old problem. One of the solutions was the building of 39-foot tall retaining walls which the Romans call embankments. They span along both sides of the whole urban stretch of the river banks. Today the risk of flooding is unlikely. Since 1875, the river has flooded three times, the last one was in 1937.

      The downside of the construction was that it resulted in the loss of centuries-old buildings, historical wharves, and lovely views. To get a glimpse of what the Tiber might have looked like prior to 1876, here is a link to watercolor paintings by Ettore Roesler Franz (1845 to 1907) from his famous series Vanished Rome. 

The importance of the river cannot be overstated in the history of the country, or the development of the nation.       -Maurice Hinchey