THREE MONTHS IN EUROPE

It's the end of January and our three months in Europe are coming to an end. This visit has been unusual for us in many ways: 

--It was longer than most of our trips.

--We were traveling to Europe during the winter.

-- I happily spent more time at playgrounds than sightseeing.

--Finally, we were following an itinerary that was planned by someone else.

Our daughter, Anna, and her family are spending a year in Europe and staying about a month in various locations. So I think you could say that we just piggy-backed on to their well-planned itinerary, choosing a time when we could be together over the holidays.

Here's a summary of our travels:

--Athens, Greece, and Crete Greece – November 2023

--Valencia, Spain – December 2023

--Belem, Lisbon, Spain – January 2024

LISBON

We rented an apartment in each location that was often within a few blocks of where Anna, John, and our three granddaughters were staying. I frequently joined them at the playgrounds in the afternoon where they could play and often meet other children. Anna and John are homeschooling and running their business while traveling. Anna is promising to write a book on their European travels—I will let you know how that progresses.

I enjoy the slow travel and getting to know each place well. I often return to interesting sights and can always find something new to discover. It's nice to have time to find your favorite cafes and restaurants. It could have been warmer at times, however, for the most part, it was in the 60s and warm enough for pleasant walks. We were in places where we could pretty much walk to wherever we wanted to go and take a bus or train as needed.

Life is different in Europe, however, if I were to pick just one thing that gives me the most pleasure it would be the ancient surroundings—sometimes dating back to 4,000 BC. Our favorite location was Crete—a place we hope to return to someday. A very special memory was the day we spent at the Acropolis in Athens with our granddaughters.

We are departing with unforgettable memories of time with our family and we are already missing them...…. However, we find solace in the fact that they are still experiencing new and interesting places in the world and in many ways, their lives will never be the same.

For now, Ron and I are in Mission Viejo, California visiting my brother, Fred. We look forward to returning home to La Crosse, Wisconsin in March and being near our son, Ben, and his wife, Erica. 

HERAKLION, CRETE

CHAIA, CRETE

BELEM TOWER, PORTUGAL

LISBON

NATIVITY SCENES OF VALENCIA, SPAIN

PLAZA DE LA REINAc

Merry Christmas from Valencia, Spain!

Valencia (pop. 800,000) is the third largest city in Spain and is well-known for its Christmas decorations, lights, and love of Nativity scenes. The artistically designed Nativity scenes can be found in the public plazas, cathedrals, museums, and markets throughout the city. I've enjoyed discovering as many as possible as I've been meandering through the city. Here are some favorites:

Related Post: "The Christmas Lights of Malaga Spain," December 23, 202

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CERAMICS - VALENCIA SPAIN

MERCADO COLON

PARISH CHURCH OF SAN VALERO

MERCADO CENTRAL OF VALENCIA

TOWN HALL OF VALENCIA 

MINIATURE CHURCHES IN CHANIA, CRETE

 

  As I was walking along the shoreline of an old fishing village in Chania, Crete, I happened to notice a small dollhouse-like church sitting on a post at the end of one of the wooden docks. I then walked out to take a closer look at this intriguing little white structure with a red-tiled roof and narrow-arched windows.

I soon began to notice these little models of Greek Orthodox churches all around Chania and decided to find out more about them.

It turns out that the tiny intricately designed models of Greek Orthodox churches are called kandylakia which means little candle in Greek. The history of making kandylakia dates back to the Byzantine era when portable religious icons were used for private worship. Over time, they evolved into miniature churches, crafted by skilled artisans, and used as offerings or gifts.

   Today they are considered a symbol of faith and devotion in the Greek Orthodox religion and are often used to commemorate special occasions like weddings and baptisms and are believed to bring blessings and protection to the house where they are displayed. The Greek Orthodox Church is the “prevailing religion” in Greece's constitution. Its members comprise about 95% of the population.

Chania (pop. 60,000) is the second largest city in Crete. We found November to be a great time to be here – the weather was mild with lots of sunshine and there were very few tourists around. I'm still missing the lovely walks along the sea and my favorite restaurant, Pallas, where I enjoyed Greek Yogurt bowls and morning coffee.

THE TURKISH SEBIL WATER FOUNTAIN OF HERAKLION - "A PLACE TO DRINK AND GATHER."

 

     When walking through Karnarous Square in Heraklion (pop. 177,000), I noticed some small tables and coffee being served next to an old round domed building. It was so picturesque that I decided to stop for a coffee. I then noticed water sprockets coming out of the wall where I was sitting and soon learned that this structure is a Sebil Water Fountain that was built in 1776 to provide free water to the public.

   During the Ottoman period, when water was not easily available to many, it was common for wealthy Turks to pay for the construction of the fountains so everyone would have clean drinking water. This well-preserved fountain, built by Hadji Ibrahim Aga, is the only Sebil or "charity fountain" that is still standing in Heraklion.

    Today is Thanksgiving in America and I will once again head down to Karnarous Square to enjoy a coffee and pastry from a nearby bakery while I watch the flock of blackbirds land on the roof of this old Sybil and I will remember to count my blessings. 

KARNAROUS SQUARE and MARKET STREET

ANATIOTIKA – A TASTE OF THE GREEK ISLANDS IN THE MIDST OF ATHENS

Sometimes a meandering city walk takes you to “other places,” like the tiny whitewashed homes built into the rock on the northeast slope of Acropolis Hill in Athens that are reminiscent of the nearby islands.

Anatiotika is a neighborhood of about 45 delightful tiny homes that were originally built in the early 1800s by migrants from the Greek island of Anafi. The workers were recruited by King Otto of Greece to build his palace. In the evenings they built small residences for their families that resembled the homes they left behind in Anafi, a small island east of Santorini in the south Aegean Sea.

   Today the homes in Anatiotika are mostly owned and inhabited by the original descendants of the settlers from Anafi and the law states they cannot be sold but must be passed down to family members or sold to the Greek State.

The walk along these steep and narrow passages to view the tiny homes also offers a spectacular view of the city and Mt. Lycabettus in the distance.

A FALL PILGRIMAGE TO THE SHRINE OF OUR LADY OF GUADALUPE —LA CROSSE, WISCONSIN

It's mid-October in southwest Wisconsin and the leaves are turning yellow and the red maple trees are at their peak. I decide to leave my familiar surroundings and take a short drive to the Shrine of Our Lady Of Guadalupe (5250 Justin Road, La Crosse) for a pilgrimage. The shrine is surrounded by 70 acres of wooded land in the scenic bluffs of driftless Wisconsin and welcomes visitors of all faiths and beliefs year-round. I love the one-mile winding walk to the top and the serenity that prevails here. (Motorized carts are provided if needed.)

Although the natural surroundings change with the season, the works of art, sculptures, memorials, and shrines stand brilliantly year-round. The Shrine Church sits about halfway up the trail. It was designed in an Italian Renaissance style with an impressive mosaic of Our Lady of Guadalupe above the altar. The exterior is made of stone from Wisconsin and Minnesota. The groundbreaking was in 2001 and it was completed in 2008. This shrine was the divine inspiration of Cardinal Burke who continues to serve as President of the Board of Directors.

My favorite stop along the path is the Votive Candle Chapel where 700 Votive candles are placed in the shape of a large pyramid and lit daily. The view of these glowing blue candles with the stained glass windows in the background is spectacular.

“When we go on a pilgrimage, we leave the familiar surroundings of everyday life for a journey to a holy place.” -Raymond Leo Cardinal Burke

THE OSHKOSH JAZZ FESTIVAL AND A LEISURELY ROAD TRIP THROUGH WISCONSIN

OSHKOSH, WISCONSIN JAZZ FESTIVAL

     The final jazz concert of the summer in Riverside Park featured singer, Steve Tormé. He announced that he would be performing at the Oshkosh Jazz Festival at the end of August. We decided to head east for the free event that was 150 miles from La Crosse.

     We arrived in downtown Oshkosh (pop.66.700) for the festival in the early afternoon with no problem finding parking and then carried our folding chairs for seating close to the stage on Main Street which was closed to traffic. We relaxed, enjoyed the local food, and spent a wonderful afternoon and evening listening to some of the best jazz musicians in the country, including Steve Tormė, Benny Benack, and the amazing Grammy award-winning cappella singers Take 6. It was the perfect start to our four-day road trip through southeastern Wisconsin.

     

Oshkosh is located on Lake Winnebago with 88 miles of shoreline. It is the largest lake entirely within the state of Wisconsin. We spent the next day, leisurely driving around the lake. There were many interesting places to linger like the Asylum Point near Oshkosh, and the Doty cabin in Nemah – where were given an interesting history lesson by a docent who seemed to know everything there was to know about the cabin and the life of Governor Doty. We drove through state parks including High Cliff State Park and enjoyed the many lighthouses along the way.

     After visiting Fond du Lac on the southern end of Lake Winnebago, we drove east to the shores of Lake Michigan to spend a night in Sheboygan, WI (pop.50,000). Lake Michigan gives you the feel of being on the ocean, and I can see why they refer to this city as “Malibu of the Midwest.” The strong winds make it a popular destination for surfers and kiteboarders. The mile-long white sandy beach was impressive, and, unlike the California beaches, there were very few people on them. It was a Monday, the end of August, and a good time to be on a road trip in the Midwest.