TAPESTRY OF UTAH & CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK

 

CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK, UTAH

       “Come on in. The earth, like the sun, like the air, belongs to everyone – and no one.”

                                                                                -Edward Abbey, The Journey Home

It's August 1^st and the first day of our road trip to Utah. It also happens to be my mother's birthday—she would be 105 today. Thank heavens for moms—they live in our hearts forever.

There is a little drama on our drive to Nevada when the traffic slows on Hwy 15, and we see flames in the distance from a forest fire. We see helicopters overhead and dozens of firefighters along the road as we pass. Fortunately, it is brought under control, and we slowly move through the area.

CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK, UTAH

After visiting relatives in Salt Lake City, Ron and I head to south-central Utah to enjoy some of the best scenery anywhere. It's about a three-hour drive south to Torrey, Utah (elev. 6,830 feet) which is close to the entrance of Capitol Reef National Park, and the location of a studio apartment we rented for the night.

Our arrival at the rental is a little bit concerning when we turn on to a dirt road and then drive up a steep hill with large potholes. We were warned about this and were even informed that it might not be passable in rain. Fortunately it was not raining, and our van made it up the hill with no problem. We find parking, however, we aren't quite sure where to enter, and the surroundings look a bit unfinished and overgrown with plants and grass.

The owner, Bob, finally appears on the scene; his pleasant and comfortable manner changes everything. He shows us the unit—it's beautiful, just like the photos. It overlooks colorful canyons and ridges that date back 65 million years, and is one of the more unusual airbnb rentals we have encountered. It feels like we are right in the midst of the park with a panoramic view of the red rock layered cliffs and the desert sky. The refrigerator is full of breakfast food for the next morning and the homemade cookies are scrumptious.

DINOSAUR DUNG FOSSILS  OR "COPROLITES"

One of the special things about using airbnb is that the owners are often friendly and informative. Bob, who owns this place, is no exception. With a passion for Triassic paleontology, he has an impressive collection of fossilized dinosaur dung or “coprolites,” bones and dinosaur teeth—all from the nearby canyons.” His enthusiasm for the area and knowledge of fossils is one of the highlights of the trip. I leave with a much greater appreciation of geology and the millions of years that preceded us—I can almost envision dinosaurs walking around.

With fewer visitors, Capitol Reef provides more solitude than many of the other national parks. We tour and hike in the evening, when it is cool and quiet. The park offers 15 well-marked hiking trails as well as numerous backpacking opportunities. There are colorful cliffs, massive domes, soaring spires and twisting canyons along the way. The park is 100 miles long and narrow with the waterpocket fold down the center that exhibits the earth's many diverse geological layers.

FRUITA HISTORIC DISTRICT
CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK

A special place in this park, is the historical fruit orchard where you can help yourself to an apple, apricot, cherry, peach, or pear when in season. This is part of the Fruita Historic District, a Mormon settlement dating from the late 1800s. The last private resident left in 1968, and it is now maintained by the park service. Also, in this area is the popular 71-site Fruita campground surrounded by willow and cottonwood trees and the nearby Fremont River.

Nearby, and easily accessible from the road, is a walkway to view petroglyphs that were etched onto the rock walls by early native inhabitants. Most are attributed to the Fremont Culture, which existed in areas of Utah from approximately 600 to 1300 AD.

After leaving the park, we drive on the Scenic Byway 12 and through the rugged and spectacular Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The drive, with all of its points of interests and backways, ends 124 miles later, near Bryce Canyon National Park. We continue on to Brian Head (elev. 9,800 feet), the “Highest Resort Town” in America, stopping at spectacular vista points along the way.

It's hard to envision the magnitude and beauty of the lands that are owned by the American people and managed by federal and state agencies. In Utah alone there are 2.3 million acres of public land—40% of the state. It is also home to five national parks, all within close proximity. There are 59 national parks across the US. If I had a bucket list, they would all be on it.

The park system offers a $10 Senior Pass for citizens 62 and older. It includes free entry for life to all of the national parks as well as other recreation sites managed by federal agencies.

CAPITAL REEF NATIONAL PARK, UTAH

FREMONT RIVER CAPTIAL REEF NATIONAL PARK

 

 

 

SPECIAL DAYS WITH MILA AT BALBOA PARK

MILA AT BLACK DOLLS EXHIBIT-MINGEI MUSEUM

First of all, I need to brag about this girl. She is a delight to take to Balboa Park. She sits up in her stroller and looks at everything. I think it's the eyes and the cute pudgy cheeks that cause dozens of “how cute she is” comments from passers-by. She takes everything in and is clearly having a good time.

On this visit, the first stop is the rose garden that happens to be at its peak on this 23^rd day of March. I don't think this is her favorite event for the day, but she is content looking around while I thoroughly enjoy the spectacular Inez Grant Parker MemorialRose Garden at its best. With more than 1,600 roses and 130 varieties, it is easy to see why the display has been the recipient of many awards, including the Great Rosarians of the World Rose Garden Hall of Fame in 2014.

Next, we meander over to the Prado restaurant where I decide to take a chance on the table at the entrance so there will be lots of activity for Mila to observe. I am a little uneasy about putting her in the highchair and trying to enjoy a meal with her in this restaurant, but it turns out fine. My salad comes quickly and she is intrigued by the ice that I put on the table (this was suggested by another customer as she walked by). Thank you, lady, whoever you were.

Black doll Exhibit

The Mingei International Museum is featuring an exhibition called: Black Dolls—From the Collection of Deborah Neff. I have been looking forward to seeing it with Mila and this seems like a good day to give it a try. There are 125 handmade dolls on display and I'm not sure what Mila thinks about them, but her eyes are big and it's fun to be with her. I hope she enjoys playing with her dolls as much as I did when growing up. I heard that little girls aren't playing with them as much as they used to. (This exhibition has ended, however, there is an interesting book featuring the collection entitled: Black Dolls: Unique African American Dolls, 1850-1930 from the Collection of Deborah Neff.)

The volunteer guard at the exhibit said that he enjoys his grandchildren too. He said that he enjoys them more than his own children.

I agreed, it is quite different. I told him that I hope I did ok, because I can't remember that much about raising my own kids.

He said his turned out well so he must of done a good job.

I guess I will have to settle for that because mine are doing well too. I told him that when I am with my granddaughter I totally focus on her—that is different than with my own, when there was always something else that needed to be done at the same time. Grandchildren and children are a blessing.

I stop for a coffee-to-go and the young man comments that Mila looks like she is a fun child to be with and he is right on. She just enjoys everything. He asks how old she is (nine months), and said that he finds it interesting to think about the new generation and what their future might be. We agree that there will be some good and bad that she will have to deal with. I guess that is about as optimistic as anyone can be about the future of this world.

Fortunately, Mila fell asleep in the stroller for her much needed afternoon nap. It also gives me a chance to read and relax in the park.

                          * * * * *

It's July, and I am still bringing Mila to the park on Tuesdays. Things have changed now that she is walking and is not always content to sit in her stroller. I guess you could say it's a little more exhausting. She moves fast and I have to hold on to her. However, when she walks and waves at people along the way it's precious. She doesn't discriminate—everyone is her friend, including the dogs.

On other visits we've watched the Merry-go-Round, however, today I decide it's time to take her for a ride. We ride on one of the horses together, and I hold her tightly on my lap. Around we go.It makes me dizzy, but she has fun.                                         

There is always someone singing or playing an instrument in the park, which is another great source of entertainment for Mila. Today she sees another little girl standing up and dancing to the music so she decides to join her.

We sometimes visit the WorldBeat Center, and today there happens to be a children's summer camp going on. Watching all those kids drumming, chanting and moving is probably the highlight of Mila's day.

TIME TO REST 

She doesn't fall asleep in the stroller like she used to. Instead she falls asleep in the car seat on the way home. Then I relax in the parked car outside her home while she finishes the nap.

Related Post:  Visiting Balboa Park with a Special Person

CASTELROTTO, ITALY -- SOUTH TYROL

HIKES NEAR CASTELROTTO/KASTELRUTH

It's Sunday evening, May 24^th, and we were about to board the bus in Bolzano for our trip to Castelrotto, Italy (elev. 3,510 ft.), where we have an apartment reserved for the week. It is located in South Tyrol (pop. 511,750), a province in the mountainous northern region of Italy, bordering on Austria to the north and Switzerland to the west. The alps in this region are called the Dolomites which rise to over 9,800 feet and cover 548 square miles. The spectacular gray vertical peaks and sheer cliffs are enhanced by the dense green forests, and narrow-deep valleys below. The dolomite rock is a unique variation of limestone.

CASTELROTTO/KASTELRUTH

We chose Castelrotto for our base because it was known for easy hiking and reasonable prices. Rick Steves Italy book describes Castlerotto as the “ideal home base for exploring Alpe di Siusi, Castelrotto . . .has more village character than any other town I know in the region.” The 50-minute bus ride involved dozens of hairpin turns which the bus driver took at a pretty good clip. I soon learned for future trips that it was more pleasant to sit in the back and enjoy the scenery, forgetting about approaching cars and near misses.

Our small studio at the Villa Tanya was booked seven months ago through booking.com (€420 per week). Once again we were at the mercy of the website for our lodging which provides numerous photos and descriptions; however, there is always that little bit of doubt that it will not be quite what you had hoped for.

It is nestled in the mountains with a lovely mountain view, a patio for my morning coffee, birds that never stopped singing and a short walk to the town center. We were pleased with our choice. The proprietors were friendly and invited us to their home for a visit when we arrived. They showed a genuine interest in us and were extremely helpful in directing us to the easier hikes in the area. We also had fun neighbors from Stuttgart, Germany, whom we had brief conversations with using our limited German and their limited English.

SOUTH TYROL

On our first day, we headed out for a casual downhill walk to the neighboring town of Siusi/Seis. We would have been satisfied walking along the sidewalk and taking the bus back, however, the proprietors advised us to take a more scenic path through the farmlands and meadows. It was uphill to start, but then a gentle downhill walk along a dirt path which we thoroughly enjoyed. It was our first hike in the area. I returned on many late evenings to leisurely walk the beginning of the trail again.

I enjoyed the small town of Castelrotto/Kastelruth (pop. 6,500). Most of the people spoke German. The town was hilly and had a lovely main square called Piazza Kraus with a church and free standing bell tower with bells that ring on the hour. There was a small cemetery next to the church where the locals take great care in watering the plants and keeping the place perfect. There was always some activity here, even during the early morning when the rest of the town was empty. The sparkling gold crosses on the grave sites were impressive. I couldn't help but wonder how they keep them safe. Perhaps a bit of utopia exists here.

SPRING FLOWERS - SOUTH TYROL

We purchased a one-week train, bus, and museum pass (€34) for the entire South Tyrol area. It was great value and provided unlimited access to hundreds of miles in the region. Each day we picked out a place to visit or hike. We took day trips to the world famous ski resort of Cortina in the Venteto region of Italy, and to the South Tyroleon Wine Road for tastings and sightseeing. We also rode the bus to Brixen with its medieval old town and Val Gardena, famous for woodcarving and skiing. It was also convenient to visit nearby Siusi/Seis for hiking and the cable car to Europe's largest high-alpine meadow, Alpe di Siusi (elev. 6,500 ft.). On our day of departure, we used the bus/train pass to get all of the way to Brenner, on the Austrian border. Here, we purchased a ticket (€8) to Innsbruck where we spent the next three nights.

Hopefully, we can return to South Tyrol again someday. I would probably chose to base in Castelrotto again, however, Ron might prefer a larger city like Bolzano. I guess I'm realizing that a small town in the mountains, where I can walk out the door and enjoy a mountain hike, is very much to my liking.  I was glad we had another week ahead of us in Gunten, a small town in the Swiss Alps.
                     

Related posts:  Vintage Walks--Lake Bled & Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

                             Bridges of Ljubljana
                             Anticipating a Month in Europe

                      Hay Baths in the Dolomites, Northern Italy

COVERED BRIDGE - CASTELROTTO

CASTELROTTO PIAZZA

CASTELROTTO

HIKING TRAILS SOUTH TYROL

HAY BATHS IN THE DOLOMITES, NORTHERN ITALY

 500 YEAR OLD BARN - SOUTH TYROL

It's sunny, 70º F, and it's the end of May in South Tyrol, northern Italy. Ron and I have just finished a pleasant hike through green alpine farmlands. We passed by 500-year-old farms, animals grazing, wooden bridges, a mountain lake, wildflowers, and flowering trees—always surrounded by the jagged, gray-colored and snow-peaked Dolomites. We ended in the charming farm village of Fiè allo Sciliar/Vőls am Schlern* at the foot of the Schlern Mountain and seven miles east of Bolzano. It also happens to be home to the famous hay baths that this area has been famous for since 1902. I had heard about these baths previously, and had hoped to experience them—I guess this was my opportunity.

Fiè allo Sciliar/Vőls am Schlern

We stopped at the tourist information office, and I inquired about the possibility of getting a hay bath. The nearby Hotel Huebad offered them (€33), and I could get an appointment right away. Ron had no interest and was happy to return to our apartment in Castelrotto to do some work, while I took advantage of this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

I walked up a hill to the old hotel which had a pleasant lobby with a garden view; I sat down to wait for the appointment. I was quite excited about this, and it didn't occur to me that it wouldn't be a pleasant experience. After all, I enjoy saunas, and I did like the one mud bath I had in Napa Valley many years ago.

SEISER ALM/ALPE DI SIUSI
SOURCE OF HAY FOR THE BATHS

Perhaps adding to my interest is the story that goes back over 100 years and explains how the idea of hay baths came to be: the local field workers who, after a hard day of work, would fall asleep in the hay, and wake up the next morning refreshed and pain free from the previous day's labor. This unique hay was from the local Seiser Alm/Alpe di Siusi area—the same area where the hay for the bath comes from. It is the largest high altitude meadow in Europe and popular with skiers and hikers.(Refer to future post for our hike in this area.) According to the hotel brochure, it consists of 40 different types of grass and flowers and it is harvested once per season, between mid-July and early-August. Next, it is carefully dried and stored.

It is time for my bath. I'm asked to remove my clothes and lay down on a pile of hot moist hay that is sitting on a heated water bed. Next, the female attendant covers my entire body with hay (except my face, thank heavens). It is heated to 104º F. The bed is lowered and then I am covered with a heavy quilt. It is the hottest I've ever been—they achieve the goal of getting me to sweat. The hay feels prickly and itchy on my skin and its earthy smell doesn't help. I am miserable and almost quit before the required 20 minutes is up, but I am still curious to see what the final results will be. The attendant comes in a couple of times to wipe the sweat from my forehead and, no doubt, to see if I am surviving.

The twenty minute bell finally rings. She lifts most of the hay off my body and has me get up to walk to another room. The remaining hay falls all over the place—cleaning up this room would have been almost as bad as the bath I just took. Next, after I decline her offer of hot tea, it is time for a 30-minute rest which I thought I might enjoy. However, I still have some itchy pieces of hay on my body and then she covers me with a sheet, a blanket and a heavy quilt. I am still hot and sweaty—just less hot than before. Once again, I count the minutes until I can get up and out of the place. I thought perhaps a final shower when this was over would make it all sort of worthwhile. Unfortunately, she told me to wait two hours before taking a shower in order to get the most benefit from the bath. This meant I needed to rub all the remaining hay off my sweaty body with towels, and then put my dirty hiking clothes back on, which is all I had with me anyway. Fortunately, I had a hat to cover my less than attractive, wet matted hair.

I headed back to the apartment and waited two hours for the much needed shower. That evening I felt a little better—but not better enough to have gone through all that misery. The next day, no difference. In thinking this through, the only way that I would consider another one of these hay baths is if I were freezing cold and hurting from a day of skiing on the nearby mountains.

*Interestingly, all of the signage in South Tyrol is listed twice, one in Italian and one in German. South Tyrol was once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, but was annexed to Italy in 1919 at the end of WW I. Many people here are native German speakers. 

PATH TO Fiè allo Sciliar/Vőls am Schlern

PASTURES ALONG THE WAY

SOUTH TYROL

CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA
FIE  ALLO SCILIAR/VOLS AM SCHLERN

SOUTH TYROL

SOUTH TYROL

SOUTH TYROL

THE LJUBLJANA CASTLE & PIRAN, SLOVENIA

LJUBLJANA CASTLE PERCHED ABOVE THE CITY

MY VINTAGE HAT

This is our last day in Ljubljana and it ended on a not so good note. Early morning, before heading up to the castle, I lost my hat. It was not just an ordinary hat to me. I've had it for 25 years and it has been my hat of choice for most of those years. That's a long time for a hat and it probably would qualify as vintage and no doubt dated me some, but I didn't worry about that. To be perfectly honest it was getting a bit worn and I cannot remember ever getting a compliment on it, but it still felt good. At first I thought it was a good excuse to buy a new hat, which I quickly did at the daily central market, however, I do truly miss that old blue hat. It was comfortable like an old pair of shoes. (Fortunately, I didn't lose my old shoes.)

   

LJUBLJANA CASTLE WALLS

 Perched high above the city, on a hill, is the magnificent Ljubjana Castle, ever visible and a reminder of the area's  history. Surveys have shown settlements here as early as 1200 BC. The current limestone structures, from nearby quarries, date back to the 14th century and the lords of Camiola. Later, it was used as a penitentiary and now a tourist attraction and home to many cultural events.

Some ride the funicular to the top just for the panoramic view of the city and surrounding countryside, however, we included the time capsule tour by costumed and talented actors & actresses presenting life in the castle during different time periods. It was extremely well done. We also visited the Barbarism of Torture exhibition and other museums. At the end, we opted for a leisurely ten minute walk down to the city center on the old wooded path.

Čajna Hiša FOR BREAKFAST

While in Ljubljana we stayed at the centrally located Mescanka apartments with a river view. We had a small kitchen which we didn't use because the local food was too good and inexpensive. We also found a nearby favorite restaurant, Čajna Hiša, where Ron could have his morning omelet and cappuccino for 5 Eur. Sitting in this cozy old cafe in the mornings, watching people pass by, was a daily pleasure that I will always remember.

After a week in Ljubljana we packed up and walked one km. to the bus station with our roller bags.We then enjoyed a relaxing two and one-half hour bus ride to our next destination through lush green meadows, flowering trees, farmlands, and with quaint villages, old churches with tall steeples, and low mountains in the distance.

PIRAN

We spent our last three nights in Slovenia along the Adriatic Sea in Piran—located in the southeast corner of the country, just above Croatia. Sitting on a piece of land jutting out to sea, it is considered the most beautiful of the Slovenian coastal towns. It is across the sea from Venice and was part of the Venetian empire during the 13^th to the 18^th centuries. It is similar to an Italian coastal town or being on the Mediterranean without all of the tourists and for less cost. Italian and Slovenian are both spoken here.

WALK TO PIRAN FROM FIESA
ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH

We stayed at the Hotel Fiesa which has a great balcony and sea view. The breakfast was good and we recommend it. Fiesa is twenty minutes from the city center but the walk along the water to get there offers spectacular views and we enjoyed it. It was a bit challenging when we had to walk home one evening in the rain and wind.

Piran (pop. 4700) is a picturesque old village on the sea with winding cobblestone alleys, city walls from the 7^th century, a seaside promenade, churches with the clanging chimes, lovely harbor, restaurants and taverns. The Tartini Square is the heart of the town and behind it is a short steep walk up to St. George's Church, built in the 12^th century, one of eight churches located here.

On our first full day we took a short bus trip over to the neighboring seaport town of Izola. It's known for fishing, wine (the one winery in town wasn't open when we were there), marinas, and ancient buildings that made for a great walk.

This entire area is popular for hiking and biking which we would have taken advantage of if it didn't rain on our last day. The rain came with 34 mph winds and strong surf which was fascinating to experience because our hotel was sitting right on the water. It also gave us an excuse to stay back and relax for the day, which was probably a good thing too.

     When we left the next day it was still raining and we were glad that we had decided not to take the ferry to Venice. Instead we took a bus to Trieste, Italy and from there it was a four hour train ride to Bolzano in northern Italy. We arrived late in the afternoon; fortunately the rain stopped so we could enjoy the lively city of Bolzano before heading up to Castelrotto the next day.

Related posts:  Vintage Walks--Lake Bled & Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

                             Bridges of Ljubljana
                             Anticipating a Month in Europe

MESCANKA APARTMENTS - CASTLE IN BACKGROUND
LJUBLJANA

I LOVE THIS PICTURE - AUTHOR UNKNOWN

NOT SURE WHO CAME UP WITH THIS IDEA

MARINA
PIRAN, SLOVENIA

BEST CARNIOLAN SAUSAGE IN LJUBLJANA

DOCK IN FRONT OF HOTEL FIESA NEAR PIRAN

ROOFTOPS OF PIRAN

CALIFORNIA QUEEN IN IZOLA, SLOVENIA

SOME LOSE THEIR SHOES IN LJUBLJANA
I LOST MY HAT

IZOLA, SLOVENIA

VINTAGE WALKS--LAKE BLED & LAKE BOHINJ, SLOVENIA

LAKE BLED, SLOVENIA

I believe it was the photo of Lake Bled with its picturesque island, Gothic church, and the Bled Castle, perched on a cliff directly above, that really made me want to travel 6,000 miles across the world to visit Slovenia. I didn't even realize at the time that Lake Bohinj, just a short drive or hike away, is even more majestic.

Both are a little over an hour north of Ljubljana, where we were based for seven nights. We chose two separate days to visit, making sure the weather forecast was good. We walked around Lake Bled and along one side of Lake Bohinj. The walks were gentle and as beautiful as they get. They were good vintage traveler walks, not many hills and plenty of benches along the way. May is a good time to travel because most of the tourists haven't shown up yet, the days are long, and the weather is mild (rain is always a risk).

BLED CREAM CAKE
PARK HOTEL CAFE

Our first side trip to Lake Bled was an easy bus ride from Ljubljana with a scenic view from the front seat. Upon arrival, we walked down to start our 3.5 mile hike circling the lake. It was one of the prettiest among the many vintage walks on our month-long journey to Europe. I loved the mountain fresh air and the lush green forests and views of the snow-peaked Alps. We stopped along the way to take photos and appreciate the lake views from different perspectives. Ending at the Park Cafe which overlooks the lake, and claims to serve the best Bled Cream Cake. It was scrumptious and well-deserved after our long walk. This vanilla and custard-cream cake is popular in several central-European countries. It is commonly associated with Bled in Slovenia where they have been baking it at the Park Hotel since 1953.

When we were heading out, we stopped at the tourist information only to be informed that Lake Bohinj is even prettier than Lake Bled. With good weather in the forecast, we were on our way to Lake Bohinj the following day.

 LAKE BOHINJ 

Bohinj is an extra thirty minutes by bus from Bled and is worth the trip even if just for the scenic bus ride along the Sava River and views of the quaint villages, mountain pastures and meadows. Lake Bohinj, with steep mountains projecting straight up from the edges, is located in the Triglav National Park, and is even more serene and natural than Lake Bled. We rode the cable car to the top of Mount Vogel for a panoramic view of the surrounding Julian Alps and Mount Triglav (9,400 ft.), the highest peak in Slovenia. It is also a good starting point for hiking trails, including the Bohinj cheese trail which offers samples of the traditionally made cheese to hikers starting late June.

After the ride down, we walked along the side of the lake for 2.5 miles. It was peaceful and we could see fish in the clear water. There was just one small rowboat carrying a few tourists on the lake, and it was so quiet that we could hear their voices. When we arrived in the uncrowded village of Ribcev Laz at the southwest end of the lake, we found a restaurant where we enjoyed a plate of fresh local cheese, warm homemade bread, and freshly turned butter. It was a fine ending to another unforgettable day in the mountains.

LAKE BOHINJ

MT VOGEL

LAKE BOHINJ