WALKING THE STREETS OF BEIJING & SHANGHAI

BEIJING

We recently returned from our journey to Beijing and Shanghai. It was a short trip, with only eight full days in these two major cities of the world. Typically, we prefer to spread our travel over at least a month—the “vintage way."  However, a short time in China was enough for us at this time

 As I mentioned in a previous blog, Anticipating a Vintage Journey to China, we booked this $999 trip through SmarTours. It included air travel, transfers and eight hotel nights with breakfast. We were well pleased with the arrangements, along with the added benefit of meeting some nice people. Ron and I passed on all but one of the daily optional tours. We prefer to explore on our own by walking and using the subway. Consequently, we miss out on some of the sights, but we have a good time and enjoy the freedom. There is something kind of special about casually walking along the streets and standing on the subways with the locals that you don't get on a tour bus.

The subways were generally easy to use, clean, and considerably more modern and efficient than the New York subways. People typically push to get on and off and don't allow other passengers to exit before they start rushing on. The riders are well-dressed and quiet with iPhones in hand. In Beijing, particularly, the subway riders were mostly under the age of 35. The price was an inexpensive 30 cents (US) per ride in Beijing. This increased to 70 cents (US) in Shanghai which was a more expensive city. In Shanghai we purchased the 24 hour pass for $3 (US).

Crossing the streets of Beijing and Shanghai (they were both about the same as I could see) was a challenge. They do have stoplights, walk signals and crosswalks. Many of the cars stop. However, vehicles turning right on a red light do not stop, in fact, they do not even slow down, sometimes I think they actually speed up. In addition, the bicycles and motorbikes (they have a special lane) do not stop and they often come from either direction. Making it worse is the fact that you can't hear the many battery-operated scooters approaching. Looking both directions and quickly crossing with the crowd helped us survive, but it wasn't pleasant. I am perplexed as to why a government and people would allow such horrendous danger and mayhem to exist on their streets.

The bad air in Beijing is a common concern and it managed to make the US news right before we left. A man from our group gave us a couple of face masks to use if we needed them. It turned out that everyday was sunny and windy. Our guide said “the wind is your friend in Beijing because it helps clear the air.” About 5% of the people in the cities were wearing face masks. I didn't notice any problem, but some people in our group were bothered by the smog.

The temperature ranged from 30F to 50F. It was slightly warmer in Shanghai which is about 1,000 miles south of Beijing.

We did not encounter many English speaking people. The restaurant menus often included photos of the meal as well as an English description. We enjoyed the Chinese food and the service was usually good; it just lacked any kind of friendliness or extra courtesy. The food came out in the order in which it was ready—regardless of whether or not you planned to share it. Beer was the most economical and popular beverage.  Rice wine was inexpensive, but not to my liking.

     If you walk up to the counter at McDonald's, the server automatically pulls out a menu with pictures and prices.

In future blogs I will share my favorite experiences: the lovely walks along the Bund in Shanghai, the Great Wall, hutongs, and retirees enjoying the parks on cold winter days.

STREET SCENE BEIJING

STREET SCENE SHANGHAI

BEIJING

PLAYING CARDS SHANGHAI

B

ANTICIPATING A VINTAGE JOURNEY TO CHINA

It was early December when I was sitting with my coffee and reading the UT San Diego newspaper. I happened to notice an article about a ten-day trip to Beijing and Shanghai for $899. This included airfare, transfers, hotel and breakfast. It wasn't difficult to convince Ron, who likes a good deal, that maybe we should venture off to China to see what it's all about. I called the trip sponsor, SmarTours, the next morning to confirm the details and to ensure they were legitimate. We decided to book the trip (adding $100 to travel in early March rather than January).

Planning was easy because the flights and hotels were prearranged by the tour company. We depart from San Francisco, and we will drive up the day before. I booked a hotel near the airport that includes ten nights of free parking using the website hotelnparking.com.This will allow us some flexibility on the return, in the event we decide to drive back leisurely or stay in San Francisco for a night.

Travel to China requires a visa. I spent many hours completing the required forms and supplying the necessary documents. Our tour company recommended we use the services of CIBTvisas which proved helpful. I needed to call them a number of times because the questions on the Chinese application were not all that clear. Finally, $380 later (China Consular visa fee: $140, CIBTvisa Service fee: $50.00—all times two) mission accomplished.

We plan to book a full day tour to the Great Wall and Ming tombs. The rest of the time we will venture out on our own. My husband, the expert in logistics, has been perusing the maps for nearby transportation and walking destinations close to our hotels. One thing I know for sure—we won't run out of things to do. I picked up a couple travel guides to bring along: Top 10 Beijing, DK Eyewitness Travel and Beijing & Shanghai, National Geographic Traveler. Our hotel offers free bikes to guests—could we really bike in Beijing?

In addition to the travel guides, I found a couple of novels about China that I enjoyed: All the Flowers in Shanghai by Duncan Jepson and Yeh Yeh's House by Evlina Chao. I am currently reading Oracle Bones by Peter Hessler, which I highly recommend. Historian, I will never be; however, I am attempting to better understand the hardships of the Tiananmen Square Massacre of 1989 and the Cultural Revolution which lasted from 1966 to 1976.

     Communicating in a foreign country is always a challenge, but even more so when it is based on a language that uses characters instead of an alphabet. I normally put some effort into learning a language before I visit, however, I must confess to not even attempting Chinese. My solution is to carry a small red book titled Me No Speak which contains lots of pictures and Chinese words for “no-speak 'ems” like me. I've already highlighted the picture for “Not Spicy.” Hopefully, we won't lose the book.

The ten day forecast for Beijing, so far, looks like an acceptable sunny and 50 degree high. I am on my way with a Minnesota winter coat, warm hat, gloves, scarf, and, as always, my tennis shoes (a no no, but they are the only comfortable shoes I've ever found, and I am much too old to trade comfort for looks). I am not expecting to love China, but it is a place in the world I have never been to and I am thankful for the opportunity to visit.

 

Found on weheart.co.uk

IN SEARCH OF VINTAGE IN "LITTLE ITALY"

LITTLE ITALY

     I arrived early one Friday morning to search for vintage in this ever-changing San Diego neighborhood of Little Italy—a perfect morning for a refreshing walk on another beautiful, 70 degree day in San Diego that just happens to be Valentine's Day.

      My goal is to find some of the early 1900 buildings that still exist. I start by walking up Kettner Boulevard where I locate the Standard Sanitary Manufacturing Company, 726-734 W. Beech Street. It was built in 1911 in an Edwardian commercial style of concrete cast to resemble quarried stone. It's a great building, and fortunately I took some photos, because I found out later that the city has approved its removal. It is to be replaced by a parking structure followed by a mixed-use-mid-to-high-rise tower. Oh dear, I was already lamenting at the loss of so many old structures in this area. I guess I better move along to see what else still exists before it too is demolished.

STANDARD SANITARY MANUFACTURING

WATERFRONT BAR & GRILL

      Continuing to walk up Kettner it would be difficult to miss the Waterfront Bar & Grill, 2044 Kettner Boulevard. It turned 80 this year and claims to be the oldest tavern in San Diego. It is 9:30 am and some guests have already arrived. I expect they are starting to celebrate this Valentine's Day a little early. Perhaps they will still be around at closing when management serves cookies at “last call.” The inside is covered with old photos and memorabilia—definitely worth a visit. They serve breakfast and coffee as well, but I passed because I am still in search of the “real” Italian coffee place.

      I continued walking up Kettner Boulevard to Kalmia Street and turned right to India Street. Here I discovered the McDonough Cleaners/City Dye Works, 2400-2404 India Street. The 1930s Spanish Revival structure still exists and is currently the El Camino Restaurant &Bar. However, the vintage plain white structure is now psychedelic. It is gray with a yellow door, pink trim and a colorful splashy design across the side—topped with carousel horses. At least the old building is still there.

EL CAMINO RESTAURANT & BAR

      Whenever I visit Little Italy, I feel compelled to stop at Filippi's, 1747 India Street. I'm not exactly sure why I love this old Italian place, but I expect that it has something to do with my upbringing. I grew up behind a grocery and meat market that my parents owned in North Minneapolis. My parents started their market in the 1930s and sold it in 1962.The De Philippis' family first opened their San Diego business in the 1950s. The front of the store is a small packed Italian grocery and meat market with a deli and restaurant in the rear. It is colorful with lots of stuff packed in and similar to a store you might discover in Italy today.

FILIPPI'S

      I decided to stop at the pleasant and quaint Pappalecco, 1602 State Street. After being greeted with a “Ciao,” by the lady behind the counter, I placed my order, and sat down at one of the plain wooden tables to sip my authentic-bold Italian coffee. Yes, I finally discovered “the place” for Italian coffee in Little Italy.









VINTAGE WINE & SOLVANG

MISSION SANTA INES

"Always to go forward & never to turn back."                     -Junipero Serra

We are heading down the California coast, on our first road trip of 2014, when we decide to stop for a little taste of Scandinavia. Solvang (pop.25,245),which means “sunny field” in Danish, is located 46 miles west of Santa Barbara, and 15 miles north of the Pacific coast. It was founded in 1911 by a group of Danish educators.

With over one-half the residents being of Danish descent, the city council decided in 1945 to cultivate their heritage by developing a “Danish Village” to attract tourists. The Danish motif idea was clearly successful, because the city is currently a very popular tourist destination with thousands of visitors annually.

We had just finished our first Christmas away from Minnesota and missed Aunt Rozanne's Swedish smörgåsbord and my niece Mary Ellen's traditional oyster stew. (We searched all over San Diego for Swedish sausage and lefse without any luck.) No doubt, this little bit of nostalgia enhanced our appreciation for a “taste of Scandinavia” in Solvang. We loved our Danish dinner at the RedViking Inn enough to return for a second night. The Danish sausage, meatloaf, mashed potatoes, heavy brown gravy, pickled red cabbage and crispybread reminded us of our moms' home cooking.

RED VIKING

The Mission Santa Inés, located on the eastern edge of Solvang, is a good diversion from “everything Danish.” It was built in 1804 on a hill overlooking the rolling green hills of Santa Ynez Valley. It is the 19^th of the 21 California Missions that were built by the Franciscans between 1769 and 1823.

MISSION SANTA INES

In addition to the beautiful chapel, there is a museum with significant original art work, including the only mission period painting by a native Indian convert.

Outside the mission, on a tree-lined path overlooking the rolling green hills, is the El Calvario. It consists of 14 wooden crosses, each with a colorful painting depicting one of the Stations of the Cross. The crosses, combined with a lovely setting, made this a very special place to linger.

EL CALVARIO

“Always to go forward & never to turn back,” is a favorite quote that is frequently seen on plaques in the California Missions. It is by Junίpero Serra, who founded the first nine missions with the goal to convert the native Americans to Christianity and promote the Catholic Church. He started his journey from Mexico with a seriously infected leg and was clearly on a mission until his death in 1784.

                                                    * * * * *        

We also found time to enjoy wine-tasting. With over 80 wineries in the area, we had a lot of choices. Santa Barbara County, with its five distinct wine-growing valleys, is one of the top wine regions in the world. The local Pinot Noir was made famous by the 2004 movie “Sideways” which was filmed in Solvang and nearby Buellton. There is no end to picturesque wineries surrounded by vineyards, charming old towns, ranches and farmland. It is beautiful year-round, even in January, when the grapes are dormant, and the grass is not as green, and the foilage not as lush, as other times of the year. I  prefer the off-season for travel because it's less crowded, cheaper, and you can travel more freely, often without reservations. We were fortunate to have sunny, warm 70 degree days.

This was a nice leisurely place to hang out for a couple of days and I would like to return. I am kind of surprised that I appreciated the Scandinavian heritage as much as I did.

NEARBY WINERY

SANTA YNEZ VALLEY

LOS OLIVOS TASTING ROOM

VINTAGE PALM SPRINGS



STUDIO HOUSE
CABOT'S PUEBLO MUSEUM

CABOT'S PUEBLO MUSEUM

       When Californians say they are going to the desert, they usually mean a trip to Palm Springs, a 140 mile drive from San Diego. They will also tell you it is just a two-hour drive, but it is a good two and one-half hours if you don't drive “Californian”. So here we are heading to the desert for two nights and 80 degree sunny days.

     The beauty of the Palm Springs area lies in the surrounding mountains which change color depending on the time of day and season. Golf is probably the biggest draw with over 130 golf courses. The temperatures are above 100 degrees in the summer—I would not want to live there year-round.
     We came to attend a special joint performance by ABBA and The Desert Symphony held at the McCallum Theater in Palm Desert. It was particularly special to us because our son, Ben, was the sound engineer. This meant he sat out of sight in the back of the balcony doing his work. We had great seats, thanks to him.
     ABBA songs like “Mamma Mia”, “Dancing Queen”, “The Winner Takes It All”, “Knowing Me Knowing You” and “Take a Chance” were some of the popular favorites at this concert. It is a magnificent and rare performance when the ABBA band plays jointly alongside a first class orchestra like The Desert Symphony.
     ABBA started in 1971 and ended as a group in 1982. All of the music from the movie and play Mamma Mia originated from ABBA. The legacy goes on, thanks to “The World's Greatest Live ABBA Tribute Show.” The ten musicians, that include two female lead singers, sound and dress very much like the original group.
     The next day, we visited Cabot's Pueblo Museum. It is located in Desert Hot Springs, a 12 mile drive from Palm Springs. This unusual museum was designed and built by a very colorful character named Cabot Yerxa. He started the project in 1941, and it was a work in progress until his death in 1965. Built with whatever material he could find in the surrounding desert, it is often referred to as the “greenest” museum in America. The adobe-style and sun-dried bricks were handmade by Cabot in the courtyard.
      Sharing the Indian belief that evil spirits dwell in symmetry, he purposely left walls somewhat uneven, floors not perfectly level and every door slanted. The Hopi-inspired four-story pueblo has 35 rooms, 150 windows and 65 doors.
       When Cabot started developing the area, he dug two wells. Interestingly, he discovered that one had extremely hot water and the other was cold. It turned out that the temperature difference was due to each being on the opposite side of the Mission Creek Fault (a branch of the San Andreas Fault).
       Another popular thing to do in this area is to ride the Palm Springs AerialTramway to the top of Mount San Jacinto, 10,831 feet. Ben and I couldn't resist the opportunity,and it was well worth the time. The rotating tram travels two miles up the cliffs of Chino Canyon and takes ten minutes. At the top, we enjoyed spectacular views of the desert below, and an early morning hike on the 1 ½ mile Desert View Trail.
       If you have an interest in hiking to the bottom, don't try it, because it's too steep and rocky. You may hike up the mountain, which takes about 10-12 hours, but if you have a problem, there's no turning back. You need to have a cell phone to call for help, and then a rescuer hikes up to assist. A little scary in my opinion, but according to our tram conductor, there are people who hike it regularly.

THERE IS NO PLACE JUST LIKE THIS PLACE
ANYWHERE NEAR THIS PLACE, SO THIS MUST BE THE PLACE

WORKSHOP

NARROW DOOR
CABOT'S PUEBLO MUSEUM

SKATING BY THE SEA AT THE VINTAGE HOTEL DEL CORONADO

 



HOTEL DEL CORONADO



*SKATING BY THE SEA

For a number of years, during the month of December, I have observed a much too crowded, outdoor skating rink overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Anyone who is a skater knows the disadvantages of a crowded rink: choppy ice and the chance of falling over someone. Add to that a hefty $23 fee with a $5 discount, if you have your own skates. I was satisfied just looking.

      So here I am, on this sunny day with a 70 degree temperature, heading over to the famous Skating Rink by the Sea at the Hotel Del Coronado. It's time to see what it's like to skate with a view of the ocean. It's still early in the season and it's the 1:30 to 3:30 pm session on a Friday—just maybe, it won't be too crowded and the ice will be good.

      First of all, I found my old skates, after searching the apartment for a good hour—they still fit because feet don't grow. Rental skates generally don't provide enough support and never seem to fit right. It's good to have your own, and I am attached to my 25-year-old skates. I rarely use them, but I was not about to part with them when we moved to California.

      I needed to find out, once and for all, what it is really like to ice skate outside, on a warm California day, with a cool breeze, and a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean. Add to this the Christmas music from a high quality sound system. It was good. There were about 24 skaters on the rink at the most, so it was not crowded. The ice was very smooth and great for skating. Just remember not to fall because there is a sheet of water on top of the ice and you will get soaked.

      Skating By the Sea at the Hotel Del Coronado is in its ninth year. This is recent, considering the hotel is currently celebrating its 125^th Anniversary. The man-made rink is open for skating from November 27 to January 5. The rink also provides a view of the hotel. It is especially enjoyable at Christmas when the hotel is adorned with thousands of white lights.

      One of my favorite things about the hotel, is the exquisitely decorated Christmas tree standing in the center of the old lobby. This year the 50 foot tall tree has classic Victorian ornaments, tartan plaid, and vintage Santas. The theme changes annually.

      Coming from Minnesota I grew up skating, as most of us did. In the 1950s we walked to the local rink, which for us was Folwell Park in North Minneapolis. We used the the warming house to put our skates on, and then off we went to enjoy the large outdoor rink and socialize. If we got cold, we went inside to warm up. Skating and sliding on the hills kept us well entertained throughout the cold winter season.

By the way, if you are from the Midwest and decide to try Skating By The Sea, I guarantee that you will be one of the better skaters on the rink. Californians are much better surfers than skaters.



PERFECT ICE
DECEMBER 13

2013 VINTAGE CHRISTMAS
HOTEL DEL CORONADO



*HOTEL DEL CORONADO



*Hotel Del Coronado photo gallery

BALBOA -- THE VINTAGE URBAN PARK

PLAZA DE PANAMA

“THE LANDS ARE TO BE HELD IN TRUST FOREVER-----FOR THE PURPOSES OF A FREE AND PUBLIC PARK AND FOR NO OTHER OR DIFFERENT PURPOSE.”

                                                   -San Diego City decree, 1871

      I first visited Balboa Park when my daughter started her studies in San Diego in the year 2000, and have been intrigued by it ever since. Now I visit regularly, always choosing a good weather day which isn't hard to do in San Diego. I love to enter via the Cabrillo Bridge and then through the West Gate Archway. There is a beautiful view of the California Building Tower, and the pleasant sound of bells from inside where the 100 Bell Ona May Carillon chimes every 15 minutes.

At the end of the bridge, I often walk up El Prado enjoying the shimmering pools, gardens, fountains and Spanish Colonial buildings. It is designed in the same style as the Alhambra in Granada, Spain, and it's easy to see the similarities.

Balboa Park (1,200 acres) is larger than CentralPark (840 acres) in New York City. You can always find something to do here because it has more attractions than any other urban park in the nation. To me it's the park of parks. Here are some of the many things to see and do:

• 15 museums
• San Diego Zoo
• Old Globe Theater complex
• Restaurants, cafes and snack carts
• Spreckels Organ—the world's largest outdoor pipe organ
• 15,000 trees of over 350 different species
• The Moreton Bay Fig Tree
• Lawn bowling, golf and tennis
• 65 miles of hiking trails
• Alcazar Garden and numerous others
• The Marie Hitchcock Puppet Theater
• House of Pacific Relations International Cottages
• Spanish Village Art Center
• Fountains, plazas and archways
• Japanese Friendship Garden

SPANISH VILLAGE ART CENTER

 This past week I made two visits. The first day I went to the Photographic Museum Library. It has one of the largest photography book collections in the country—way too many for one visit. It is well worth a visit if you have the time and enjoy photography, as I do. A reservation is required. Afterwards, I stopped at The Prado for lunch. It's one of my favorite restaurants, mainly because of the setting and ambiance. I always enjoy the pressed arugula salad ($9.95).

     Later in the afternoon, Ron joined me and we went to the Air and Space Museum which was free to residents on this 1st Tuesday. It provides a great journey through the history of flight with over 60 aircraft and space vehicles on display. The museum is currently celebrating its 50th Anniversary.

                                           

BALBOA PARK DECEMBER NIGHTS
SPRECKLES PAVILION

       On December 6^th, we made a last minute decision to visit DBalboa Park December Nights. It attracts thousands during the two evenings it is held. We arrived at 3:00 on Friday, before the crowds, and enjoyed a good hike around the park on this cool brisk evening. It is truly a unique experience with Christmas lighting throughout. We spent quite a bit of time looking at the decorated trees from all over the world in the Casa Del Prado. Also, a visit to the Natural History Museum (most museums are free during this event). The highlights are always the entertainment and Christmas tree lighting at the Spreckels Pavilion. By far the best food vendors are at the International Cottages where they serve food from around the world at reasonable prices. Unfortunately, we arrived there about 7:30 when the food lines were too long for us. We will arrive earlier next year. We left the park about 8:00 and noticed that there were far more people entering than leaving an already too-crowded event.

      The park has much to offer. I never tire of my visits. It also changes with the seasons—I'm looking forward to the roses and flowering trees in April.

PLAZA DE BALBOA

CASA DEL PRADO

DECEMBER NIGHTS
CHRISTMAS TREES AROUND THE WORLD