Saturday, June 27, 2015

THE LJUBLJANA CASTLE & PIRAN, SLOVENIA

LJUBLJANA CASTLE PERCHED ABOVE THE CITY
MY VINTAGE HAT

This is our last day in Ljubljana and it ended on a not so good note. Early morning, before heading up to the castle, I lost my hat. It was not just an ordinary hat to me. I've had it for 25 years and it has been my hat of choice for most of those years. That's a long time for a hat and it probably would qualify as vintage and no doubt dated me some, but I didn't worry about that. To be perfectly honest it was getting a bit worn and I cannot remember ever getting a compliment on it, but it still felt good. At first I thought it was a good excuse to buy a new hat, which I quickly did at the daily central market, however, I do truly miss that old blue hat. It was comfortable like an old pair of shoes. (Fortunately, I didn't lose my old shoes.)
   
LJUBLJANA CASTLE WALLS
 Perched high above the city, on a hill, is the magnificent Ljubjana Castle, ever visible and a reminder of the area's  history. Surveys have shown settlements here as early as 1200 BC. The current limestone structures, from nearby quarries, date back to the 14th century and the lords of Camiola. Later, it was used as a penitentiary and now a tourist attraction and home to many cultural events.

Some ride the funicular to the top just for the panoramic view of the city and surrounding countryside, however, we included the time capsule tour by costumed and talented actors & actresses presenting life in the castle during different time periods. It was extremely well done. We also visited the Barbarism of Torture exhibition and other museums. At the end, we opted for a leisurely ten minute walk down to the city center on the old wooded path.
Čajna Hiša FOR BREAKFAST

While in Ljubljana we stayed at the centrally located Mescanka apartments with a river view. We had a small kitchen which we didn't use because the local food was too good and inexpensive. We also found a nearby favorite restaurant, Čajna Hiša, where Ron could have his morning omelet and cappuccino for 5 Eur. Sitting in this cozy old cafe in the mornings, watching people pass by, was a daily pleasure that I will always remember.
After a week in Ljubljana we packed up and walked one km. to the bus station with our roller bags.We then enjoyed a relaxing two and one-half hour bus ride to our next destination through lush green meadows, flowering trees, farmlands, and with quaint villages, old churches with tall steeples, and low mountains in the distance.
PIRAN
We spent our last three nights in Slovenia along the Adriatic Sea in Piran—located in the southeast corner of the country, just above Croatia. Sitting on a piece of land jutting out to sea, it is considered the most beautiful of the Slovenian coastal towns. It is across the sea from Venice and was part of the Venetian empire during the 13th to the 18th centuries. It is similar to an Italian coastal town or being on the Mediterranean without all of the tourists and for less cost. Italian and Slovenian are both spoken here.
WALK TO PIRAN FROM FIESA
ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH
We stayed at the Hotel Fiesa which has a great balcony and sea view. The breakfast was good and we recommend it. Fiesa is twenty minutes from the city center but the walk along the water to get there offers spectacular views and we enjoyed it. It was a bit challenging when we had to walk home one evening in the rain and wind.
Piran (pop. 4700) is a picturesque old village on the sea with winding cobblestone alleys, city walls from the 7th century, a seaside promenade, churches with the clanging chimes, lovely harbor, restaurants and taverns. The Tartini Square is the heart of the town and behind it is a short steep walk up to St. George's Church, built in the 12th century, one of eight churches located here.
On our first full day we took a short bus trip over to the neighboring seaport town of Izola. It's known for fishing, wine (the one winery in town wasn't open when we were there), marinas, and ancient buildings that made for a great walk.
This entire area is popular for hiking and biking which we would have taken advantage of if it didn't rain on our last day. The rain came with 34 mph winds and strong surf which was fascinating to experience because our hotel was sitting right on the water. It also gave us an excuse to stay back and relax for the day, which was probably a good thing too.
     When we left the next day it was still raining and we were glad that we had decided not to take the ferry to Venice. Instead we took a bus to Trieste, Italy and from there it was a four hour train ride to Bolzano in northern Italy. We arrived late in the afternoon; fortunately the rain stopped so we could enjoy the lively city of Bolzano before heading up to Castelrotto the next day.

Related posts:  Vintage Walks--Lake Bled & Lake Bohinj, Slovenia
                             Bridges of Ljubljana
                             Anticipating a Month in Europe

MESCANKA APARTMENTS - CASTLE IN BACKGROUND
LJUBLJANA


I LOVE THIS PICTURE - AUTHOR UNKNOWN

NOT SURE WHO CAME UP WITH THIS IDEA

MARINA
PIRAN, SLOVENIA


BEST CARNIOLAN SAUSAGE IN LJUBLJANA

DOCK IN FRONT OF HOTEL FIESA NEAR PIRAN
ROOFTOPS OF PIRAN


CALIFORNIA QUEEN IN IZOLA, SLOVENIA


SOME LOSE THEIR SHOES IN LJUBLJANA
I LOST MY HAT
IZOLA, SLOVENIA



Thursday, June 18, 2015

VINTAGE WALKS--LAKE BLED & LAKE BOHINJ, SLOVENIA

LAKE BLED, SLOVENIA
I believe it was the photo of Lake Bled with its picturesque island, Gothic church, and the Bled Castle, perched on a cliff directly above, that really made me want to travel 6,000 miles across the world to visit Slovenia. I didn't even realize at the time that Lake Bohinj, just a short drive or hike away, is even more majestic.
Both are a little over an hour north of Ljubljana, where we were based for seven nights. We chose two separate days to visit, making sure the weather forecast was good. We walked around Lake Bled and along one side of Lake Bohinj. The walks were gentle and as beautiful as they get. They were good vintage traveler walks, not many hills and plenty of benches along the way. May is a good time to travel because most of the tourists haven't shown up yet, the days are long, and the weather is mild (rain is always a risk).
BLED CREAM CAKE
PARK HOTEL CAFE
Our first side trip to Lake Bled was an easy bus ride from Ljubljana with a scenic view from the front seat. Upon arrival, we walked down to start our 3.5 mile hike circling the lake. It was one of the prettiest among the many vintage walks on our month-long journey to Europe. I loved the mountain fresh air and the lush green forests and views of the snow-peaked Alps. We stopped along the way to take photos and appreciate the lake views from different perspectives. Ending at the Park Cafe which overlooks the lake, and claims to serve the best Bled Cream Cake. It was scrumptious and well-deserved after our long walk. This vanilla and custard-cream cake is popular in several central-European countries. It is commonly associated with Bled in Slovenia where they have been baking it at the Park Hotel since 1953.
When we were heading out, we stopped at the tourist information only to be informed that Lake Bohinj is even prettier than Lake Bled. With good weather in the forecast, we were on our way to Lake Bohinj the following day.
 LAKE BOHINJ 
Bohinj is an extra thirty minutes by bus from Bled and is worth the trip even if just for the scenic bus ride along the Sava River and views of the quaint villages, mountain pastures and meadows. Lake Bohinj, with steep mountains projecting straight up from the edges, is located in the Triglav National Park, and is even more serene and natural than Lake Bled. We rode the cable car to the top of Mount Vogel for a panoramic view of the surrounding Julian Alps and Mount Triglav (9,400 ft.), the highest peak in Slovenia. It is also a good starting point for hiking trails, including the Bohinj cheese trail which offers samples of the traditionally made cheese to hikers starting late June.
After the ride down, we walked along the side of the lake for 2.5 miles. It was peaceful and we could see fish in the clear water. There was just one small rowboat carrying a few tourists on the lake, and it was so quiet that we could hear their voices. When we arrived in the uncrowded village of Ribcev Laz at the southwest end of the lake, we found a restaurant where we enjoyed a plate of fresh local cheese, warm homemade bread, and freshly turned butter. It was a fine ending to another unforgettable day in the mountains.
LAKE BOHINJ



MT VOGEL


LAKE BOHINJ