THE OLD BOOKSTORES OF RUSSAFA

Valencia, Spain, with its population of 800,000, has an abundance of booksellers. However, it's the unassuming little old bookstores of Russafa that I find the most intriguing. The books are stacked floor to ceiling in bookcases and free-standing book towers are scattered precariously throughout the store. These businesses would never make the list of “most beautiful bookstores in the world,” but there is still something about the small, musty, narrow places, stuffed with old books, that I enjoy the most.

   

Libreria Miranfu (Calle Los Centelles 23) is one of those special places with thousands of books stacked in the bookcases and book towers that are placed in the narrow aisles throughout. It requires a bit of patience and courage to pull a book out from the towers, however, I expect you acquire that talent the more you frequent these places. The owner spoke English and was always pleasant and helpful. 

Libreria de Vell Russafa (Calle Sevilla 19) sells used and out-of-print books in an aged corner store that is reminiscent of a Harry Potter movie. This well-known neighborhood bookshop, with books piled high to the sky, is one of the oldest in Valencia. Pete, the owner, often engages in conversation with fellow book lovers—and sometimes they share a sip of wine together.

Brunch in an old bookstore.

                                                           

Ruzafa, also known as Russafa, is a neighborhood located in southeastern Valencia (pop. 800,000). It was originally a rural farming area, that later became a working class-immigrant neighborhood and today it is referred to as the edgy hipster part of town or the “cool place to live.” It is also home to a variety of small independent shops, restaurants, cafes, bakeries, antique stores, vintage clothing, and bookstores. On a pleasant day, the customers at the many bars and cafes overflow into the streets. It's also a place where children play in parks that are surrounded by apartment buildings.

Related Post:   Verbatim Books - A Vintage Bookstore in North Park, San Diego, March 3, 2020

A VISIT TO EDINBURGH CASTLE BY MILA

MILA

Today's blog post features a special guest writer – Mila, my granddaughter, a curious and talented nine-year-old. She's currently in Edinburgh Scotland with her family. They spent Easter Sunday exploring Edinburgh Castle and this is Mila's story: 

2:24PM: WALKING AROUND IN A LARGE GRAVEL AREA WHILE WAITING TO GO INTO THE CASTLE.

             

2:26PM: WE GET ICE CREAM.

AROUND 2:30PM: WE GET INTO THE CASTLE AND GRAB A MAP.

2:52PM: I GO WITH MY MOM TO MY PERSONAL FAVORITE, 
ST. MARGARET'S CHAPEL

ABOUT 3:00: WE SEE TWO OF MY FAVORITES, THE DOG CEMETERY AND THE
FORE WELL, IN WHICH I DROPPED TREE PEBBLES FOR MY SISTER, WITH A VERY SATISFACTORY RESULT.

3:49PM: WE GO TO A PLACE CALLED THE GREAT HALL

4:45PM: WE LEAVE AND GO TO A CAFE

5:00PM: I GO BACK WITH MY DAD AND WE SEE THE CROWN JEWELS.

ABOUT 5:20PM: WE GO TO THE GIFT SHOP AND I GET A MOOD RING AND A PENCIL.

QUEEN MARGARET (ABOVE)
[ST MARGARET'S CHAPEL IS THE OLDEST BUILDING IN EDINBURGH CASTLE. 
BUILT IN ABOUT 1130, THIS CHAPEL WAS PROBABLY PART OF A GREAT STONE TOWER. IT IS DEDICATED TO THE SAINTLY QUEEN MARGARET, WHO LIVED IN THE CASTLE IN THE LATE 1000'S]

AZULEJOS AND THE OLD TILE FACTORY OF BELEM

On a hill above Belem, Portugal sits Sant'Anna Fabrica (Calcada da Boa-Hora 96), the oldest operating Azulejos factory in Europe. This family-owned business is still making artistic tiles and ceramics by hand just as they did when it was founded in 1741.

FABRICA SANT'ANNA

The showroom is open daily and visiting this place is like going to a museum. There are hundreds of artistic tiles and ceramics on display and thousands more molds in the factory to choose from. They also make special designs per customer request. Less than 18 percent of the products sold remain in Portugal and the rest are shipped to customers all over the world. About 65 percent of the products are shipped to the United States. A replica of a panel that was specially designed for Barbara Streisand is on display in the factory.

SHOWROOM

After visiting the showroom, I made a reservation to return another day for the factory tour where the original wood-burning kilns are still on display. The methods, materials, and tools used to make the impressive Azulejos haven't changed much through the years and it takes many months to complete an order. Using natural clay, the tiles and pottery are molded, cut, dried, baked, glazed, and painted by hand before the final baking. Each individual piece is checked manually for quality using the same techniques and high standards that they have been using for almost 300 years.

 Skilled artists, sitting on small stools, were painting on tiles the day we visited, each with a little paint cart sitting next to them.

ARTISTS AT WORK IN FACTORY

One of the many reasons there are so many buildings constructed with tiles in Lisbon is that it was the material of choice when the city was almost totally rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. Tiles were cheaper than stone and other materials and offered many of the same benefits.

On my last day in Belem, as I take one more leisurely walk to enjoy the colorful ceramic tiles that adorn the buildings, I have fleeting thoughts of returning someday to load up on Sant'Anna tiles to decorate my own little Portuguese villa by the sea.  

Related Post: Azulejos & A Vintage Tiles Shop in Faro, Portugal, October 12, 2016

THOUSANDS OF MOLDS STORED IN FACTORY

THREE MONTHS IN EUROPE

It's the end of January and our three months in Europe are coming to an end. This visit has been unusual for us in many ways: 

--It was longer than most of our trips.

--We were traveling to Europe during the winter.

-- I happily spent more time at playgrounds than sightseeing.

--Finally, we were following an itinerary that was planned by someone else.

Our daughter, Anna, and her family are spending a year in Europe and staying about a month in various locations. So I think you could say that we just piggy-backed on to their well-planned itinerary, choosing a time when we could be together over the holidays.

Here's a summary of our travels:

--Athens, Greece, and Crete Greece – November 2023

--Valencia, Spain – December 2023

--Belem, Lisbon, Spain – January 2024

LISBON

We rented an apartment in each location that was often within a few blocks of where Anna, John, and our three granddaughters were staying. I frequently joined them at the playgrounds in the afternoon where they could play and often meet other children. Anna and John are homeschooling and running their business while traveling. Anna is promising to write a book on their European travels—I will let you know how that progresses.

I enjoy the slow travel and getting to know each place well. I often return to interesting sights and can always find something new to discover. It's nice to have time to find your favorite cafes and restaurants. It could have been warmer at times, however, for the most part, it was in the 60s and warm enough for pleasant walks. We were in places where we could pretty much walk to wherever we wanted to go and take a bus or train as needed.

Life is different in Europe, however, if I were to pick just one thing that gives me the most pleasure it would be the ancient surroundings—sometimes dating back to 4,000 BC. Our favorite location was Crete—a place we hope to return to someday. A very special memory was the day we spent at the Acropolis in Athens with our granddaughters.

We are departing with unforgettable memories of time with our family and we are already missing them...…. However, we find solace in the fact that they are still experiencing new and interesting places in the world and in many ways, their lives will never be the same.

For now, Ron and I are in Mission Viejo, California visiting my brother, Fred. We look forward to returning home to La Crosse, Wisconsin in March and being near our son, Ben, and his wife, Erica. 

HERAKLION, CRETE

CHAIA, CRETE

BELEM TOWER, PORTUGAL

LISBON

NATIVITY SCENES OF VALENCIA, SPAIN

PLAZA DE LA REINAc

Merry Christmas from Valencia, Spain!

Valencia (pop. 800,000) is the third largest city in Spain and is well-known for its Christmas decorations, lights, and love of Nativity scenes. The artistically designed Nativity scenes can be found in the public plazas, cathedrals, museums, and markets throughout the city. I've enjoyed discovering as many as possible as I've been meandering through the city. Here are some favorites:

Related Post: "The Christmas Lights of Malaga Spain," December 23, 202

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CERAMICS - VALENCIA SPAIN

MERCADO COLON

PARISH CHURCH OF SAN VALERO

MERCADO CENTRAL OF VALENCIA

TOWN HALL OF VALENCIA 

MINIATURE CHURCHES IN CHANIA, CRETE

 

  As I was walking along the shoreline of an old fishing village in Chania, Crete, I happened to notice a small dollhouse-like church sitting on a post at the end of one of the wooden docks. I then walked out to take a closer look at this intriguing little white structure with a red-tiled roof and narrow-arched windows.

I soon began to notice these little models of Greek Orthodox churches all around Chania and decided to find out more about them.

It turns out that the tiny intricately designed models of Greek Orthodox churches are called kandylakia which means little candle in Greek. The history of making kandylakia dates back to the Byzantine era when portable religious icons were used for private worship. Over time, they evolved into miniature churches, crafted by skilled artisans, and used as offerings or gifts.

   Today they are considered a symbol of faith and devotion in the Greek Orthodox religion and are often used to commemorate special occasions like weddings and baptisms and are believed to bring blessings and protection to the house where they are displayed. The Greek Orthodox Church is the “prevailing religion” in Greece's constitution. Its members comprise about 95% of the population.

Chania (pop. 60,000) is the second largest city in Crete. We found November to be a great time to be here – the weather was mild with lots of sunshine and there were very few tourists around. I'm still missing the lovely walks along the sea and my favorite restaurant, Pallas, where I enjoyed Greek Yogurt bowls and morning coffee.