BIKING ALONG THE MEXICAN BORDER

BORDER FENCE

      Ron and I decided to go out for a bike ride on another lovely sunny California day in October. Ron perused the bike map and decided to drive south toward the Mexican Border, and then bike on a paved road that leads to the Southwest corner of the continental US in
Border Field State Park.  Currently, the bikes are stored inside our van which makes driving to a biking destination an easy option.

      This is one of the more interesting rides we've taken. It's a bit of a step back in time because most of the ride is on an old winding paved road that hasn't had any improvements for years. In fact, it is underwater part of the year. It's quiet with very little traffic, modest farms, and horse ranches along the way. The surrounding ground cover and brush looked pretty scraggly and brownish.
 
     What made it the most interesting, however, is the fact that we were biking along the Mexican Border and could see the border fence and Tijuana along the way. There were few cars or people around, but we saw an occasional Border Control truck as well as one patroller on a motorcycle.

      When we reached the Pacific Ocean and the Southwest corner, we walked up to the double border fence and viewed the Mexican beachfront community of
Las Playas de Tijuana on the other side. An old dormant bullring and picturesque lighthouse were also visible. We could hear live music from the other side. There was far more activity on the Mexican side with people playing and walking along the beach. The border fence extends about 300 feet into the ocean. Swimming is not recommended due to hazardous conditions, such as inshore holes and rip currents.

      I was surprised to see horseback riders on the beach. Border Field State Park is one of the only places in California that allows riding on the beach and horses can be rented at a nearby stable. (I hope I can convince my son to come down here and ride a horse with me when he comes to visit at Xmas.)

HORSEBACK RIDING ALONG BEACH

      Another fascinating discovery was Friendship Park. It is the only place along the entire Mexican-US border that provides a place for loved ones, that are separated by immigration status, to reunite. Established in 1971, it is located within the Border Field State Park and open on Saturdays and Sundays from 10am to 2pm. Families travel from great distances to be together.
 
      There are a few ways to drive to this area and various parking options. We took the Dairy Mart Road exit west off of Hwy 5, and parked at the Tijuana River Valley County Park. We biked along Dairy Mart Rd which eventually turns into Monument Road. It is about five miles to the Border Field State Park and the ocean. This is all located within the Tijuana River National Estuarine Research Reserve, a wildlife reserve. The road into the park is closed most of the winter months due to flooding.

LIGHTHOUSE IN MEXICO

HOME ALONG THE WAY

MONUMENT ROAD

THREE DAYS IN DES MOINES, IOWA

DES MOINES-- RIVERWALK

  We arrived in Des Moines in early October to relax for a few days, and spend some special time with our son, Ben. The weather was in the 70s and sunny. We stayed downtown at the Renaissance Des Moines Savery Hotel, using Marriott free night rewards. It is an old hotel with small rooms, but the location is convenient.

  It was a good opportunity to get to know the downtown area. It's a pretty, sleepy city with a population of 203,500—the biggest shopping store is Walgreen's. The traffic is light, even during rush hour. The scenic Des Moines River, with it's Principal Riverwalk and bridges, made for some enjoyable hiking and biking. The Iowa State Capitol is perched on a hill overlooking the city.

Original Dome Skylight
The World Food Prize Hall of Laureates

  One of the downtown gems is the World Food Prize Hall of Laureates and the surrounding gardens. It is located in the restored century-old Des Moines Public Library, one of Iowa's greatest historic buildings. (The downtown library moved to a new location in 2006.)  Since 1986, the World Food Prize has honored outstanding individuals who have made vital contributions to improving the quality, quantity or availability of food throughout the world. The hall, which was officially dedicated to the World Prize Foundation in 2011, is now open to the public on Tuesdays and Saturdays. It has a very impressive original dome skylight—each of the 10,000 pieces of skylight glass were inspected, cleaned and repaired during the renovation. There are many lovely rooms to visit with interesting works of art from all over the world.

Sherman Hill Historic District

Sherman Hill Historic District

     The Sherman Hill Historic District, with its Victorian mansions from the 1870s, is also worth a visit. It is about a mile from the city center. Also, if you are lucky enough to be in Des Moines on a Saturday morning (May thru October), don't miss the downtown Farmers' Market which is ranked #2 in the nation by The Daily Meal website.

  Ben and I had lunch at Baru at the Des Moines Art Center, 13^th & Grand Ave, which is close to his apartment, and a favorite destination for him and Erica. The dining area includes a pleasant outside patio, surrounded by water. I enjoyed the quiche and salad.

  We also visited the downtown Hessen House Bierhall, 101 4^th Street, which offers the old world German charm as well as a choice of over 21 imported beers. Don't miss the unique and tasty appetizers: sauerkraut balls, reuben rolls, and a peasant plate with German cheese and sausage.

  Last spring Ben purchased an 80 year old home that needed major renovation. He is just finishing the drywall and expects to be moving in soon. He is fortunate to have learned so much about construction through his work with Habitat for Humanity. As usual, Bens' hard work and dedication pays off. 

Sherman Hill Historic District

Sherman Hill Historic District

Sherman Hill Historic District

Sherman Hill Historic District

Hessen House

VINTAGE JOURNEY HOME

VINTAGE PIANO

Finally, the day I dreamed about—the house is empty, sold, and we're driving our two vans back to California with the stuff we love and think we need.

The last two months have been a bit of a challenge, to put it mildly. We arrived back in Minnesota in early August to a home that had been on the market for four months without an offer. It seemed that it was not going to sell soon. Finally, we received an offer at the the end of August with 30 days until closing. My original plan was to have someone come in to do an estate sale. Unfortunately, they were booked up, and I was left with the responsibility of getting rid of 95% of our belongings in 30 days.

Our children, Ben and Anna, both made trips to the house to determine what they wanted to keep. Next, we gave away whatever we could to family and friends. Then I started my full time nonprofit business on Craigslist. We also used scrappers, charities, recycling, consignment and, when all else failed, the trusty dumpster.

It wasn't a very pleasant experience, but there was light at the end of the tunnel and some special moments along the way.

I needed to part with my much-loved piano that belonged to my family for 60 years. I kept hearing how difficult it is to get rid of pianos. That turned out to be the case. Finally, my ad on Craigslist resulted in a woman asking when her movers could come to pick it up. Off it went. I really wanted to know who was getting it, but at that time I was just relieved that it was out of the house. About three days later I received a nice thank you note from the women saying her children loved the piano. That made me feel much better.

One of the piano movers was thrilled to take my son's preserved shark head home. We offered them a lot more, but for some reason he spotted that shark and was happy.

I had two guys come to pick up the free heavy hideabed which was on the second floor. I advertised it as comfortable. The smile on the guy's face when he sat down on it was priceless.

We had three Chinese people come to pick up our heavy upstairs desk (and other items we talked them into). Before they were done, they offered to drive our van out to California, so we could fly back.

For some reason the treadmill ad on Craigslist attracted all kinds of not-so-nice sexual interest—whatever I said, it was a turn on. They are still responding long after the ad was removed—I continue to forward them to spam.

Then there were the two girls riding by on bikes that volunteered to help move heavy bookcases from the basement and refused to take the money that was offered.

We donated items to the Salem Lutheran Church Garage Sale in North Minneapolis, thanks to my old friend Marcia who did all the work. I grew up in North Minneapolis so there was something kind of cool about my stuff going there. (Especially the Christmas plates that my mother made.)

Thanks to the two men from Friendship Ventures Charity that came and gladly removed so much of what we still had left—including the Christmas tree.

Then there was the perfect gift for a soon-to-be married friend—my daughter Anna's wedding dress. Shannon tried it on and it fit perfectly—she was delighted, and so was Anna.

Through all of this I was getting urgent calls from Jeff, our realtor, with issues related to the sale of the house—there were many contingencies, including a radon problem, but thanks to his hard work they were all resolved just in time for the closing.

We arrived safely back in Coronado, California (whoops, I mean Shangri-la) last night

--all is well.

MINNESOTA IN WINTER

VIEW FROM APARTMENT
CORONADO, CA

 

VINTAGE AITKIN, MINNESOTA

AITKIN BAKERY

I arrived in Minnesota just in time for my 50^th Class
Reunion followed by a 110 mile drive north to Farm Island Lake for a reunion with some of my favorite cousins. The next day I decided to head to the nearest town of Aitkin to find a coffee shop with wifi so I could do some work on my laptop. It turned out to be a trip down memory lane:

The Aitkin area is special to me because it is where I spent every summer weekend of my life from day one until college. My parents owned a cabin on Farm Island Lake—they loved it and so did the rest of the family. The weekend consisted of a late Saturday night arrival after my parents closed down their grocery and meat market in North Minneapolis for their one day off per week (Sunday), and we jumped in the car to head up north. The return was either Sunday night or a very early (4am) departure on Monday so they could open the store and I could get to school on time (if it was spring or fall). These excursions began in May and lasted through September.  

While at the cabin, we often made the eight mile trip to Aitkin for a little action like a movie, bowling, or a visit to the knitting shop. As teenagers we liked to visit the A&W Drive-in to check-out the men. I also recall attending dances above one of the old bank buildings in town. The trips to Aitkin were always an event because we made them so.

Sixty years later, there are some things about this town that haven't changed:

• The Rialto Theater, 220 Minnesota Avenue North, which open in 1937, is still showing movies in the same Art Deco style building.

  

  THE RIALTO THEATER IN AITKIN

  
  
• The Aitkin Bakery, 2^nd Street NW, is still selling cheap bakery stuff in the narrow hole in the wall store. It still has the same shelving, cabinets, handwritten signage, and bakery choices; remarkably all in the same location. Bread lined up on the right wall and cookies on the first shelf to the left then the donuts. Sadly, the bakery is closing this fall.

SIGNAGE IN AITKIN BAKERY

• Old Victorian homes like the former Hodgedon Residence, 122 Second Street NW, still exist. Another relic is the former Foley House, Minnesota Avenue South, which is now the Beacon Arch Apartments.
  

  

  THE FORMER HODGEDON RESIDENCE

  
  
• Minnesota Avenue is still wide with most of the same old buildings, but different storefronts. For example, The Butler's Store, 302 Minnesota Avenue North, originally built in 1902, is now The Beanery serving coffee, tea and sandwiches. (Best place to find wifi.)

  

  THE BEANERY

  
  
• The town hasn't grown much. The population is about the same: 2,079 in 1950 vs. 2,165 in 2010. The temperatures in January are still freezing cold--the average low is -2.9 degree F.
• The Forty Club, 950 2^nd Street NW, has been rebuilt due to a fire but it is still the same active spot it always was. I think they still do some dancing on Saturday nights, just like the old days, but I'm not sure about the polka.

A few additional points of interest about this small town in northern Minnesota:

• The world famous Fish House Parade takes place every year on Black Friday, the day after Thanksgiving.
• The 40 Club Restaurant is listed in the Minnesota Guide to Haunted Locations. It is haunted by the spirit of a man that died in an upstairs apartment in 1999. The old jukebox turns on and starts playing by itself. The bar lights turn off and on for no reason. Footsteps can be heard upstairs when no one is there.
• The town is home to a famous old Hollywood movie star: Warren Williams who grew up and graduated from Aitkin High School in 1915. He made 70 movies and has an original Hollywood Walk of Fame Star at 1559 Vine Street.

My favorite addition to Aitkin (after the ghosts) is the Depot Museum, 20 Pacific Street SW, which was officially dedicated in 1980. It is preserved by the Aitkin County Historical Society and located in the 1916 Northern Pacific Depot—both the exterior and interior are essentially intact. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

With some nostalgia, I will now head back to the cabin and soon return to my new home in California. What the future has in store for us we can not be certain, but our plans are to return to Minnesota for an annual summer visit. I'm thankful for my roots—they never go away.

FARM ISLAND LAKE

VINTAGE DEL MAR RACETRACK

OLD DEL MAR RACETRACK

      July 18, 2013 was one of two Senior Days at the Del Mar Racetrack which means free admission, free programs and free seats. This was too good of a deal for my husband to pass up. In addition, a free shuttle from the Solana Beach Amtrak Station to the racetrack gate is available throughout the season. We found street parking close to the station and rode on the double decker British bus over to the track and walked right into a not-so-crowded racetrack facility with plenty of free seating.

      This was our first visit to the Del Mar Racetrack, so we spent most of time exploring the facilities, even though our ticket didn't allow access to some of the club areas that required a special entry fee. It was fun to look around and to view the old black and white photos of Hollywood celebrities that line the walls.

Here are some interesting facts about the Del Mar Racetrack:

---Bing Crosby was one of the original owners and personally greeted the fans on     opening day in 1937.
---Races have been held every summer since opening, except during WW II.
---It opened in an era when horse racing ranked second in popularity to Major League Baseball.
---Located on the Pacific Ocean, the track is known for the slogan: "Where the Turf Meets the Surf."
---By 1940, Del Mar was the summer playground for many Hollywood stars.
---The Del Mar racing season runs from July through early September.      
---They have a famous "One and Only Truly Fabulous Hats Contest" on opening day each year.
---Starting in 2014, the racing season may be extended due to the closing of the Hollywood Park Racetrack.

     We left a little early to avoid the crowds and I had to listen to my husband brag

about how he picked the winner in three out of four of the races he bet on. He actually

walked away $10 ahead because he just bets $2 at a time and he had to subtract my

losses.

      We left in time to catch a Happy Hour and dinner at one of our favorite Solana Beach establishments, Chief's Burger & Brew, 124 Lomas Santa Fe Drive, it is across the street from the Amtrak terminal. We enjoyed the Thursday night special--spaghetti and meatballs for $9.99.

      Previously we rented a condo in Solana Beach, so we are familiar with the area and have always loved it. It was on our list of possible places to settle in when we came out last fall, but we never made it past the first apartment we looked at in Coronado—overlooking the San Diego Bay. In the past we have been in Minnesota during the race season (July-September).

     After dinner, we to walked down to Fletcher Cove to view the ocean and had the added benefit of a concert at the cove—they are held on Thursday nights during the summer.

                            "Where the Surf Meets the Turf down at Old Del Mar

                                               take a plane, take a car.
                There is a smile on every face and a winner in each race

                                 where the turf meets the surf at Del Mar"                             

Recorded by Bing Crosby on July 5, 1941. You may listen to it here.

LIVE AT THE RACES JULY 18, 2013

RACETRACK TAVERN DEL MAR

CIRCLING CORONADO BY BIKE

The inspiration for this post is a booklet titled, Coronado'sArchitectural Gems, prepared by the Coronado Historical Association and Coronado Visitor Center. Most of the “gems” were built shortly after 1887. The most famous is the Hotel Del Coronado—completed in 1888.

HOTEL DEL CORONADO

I have found the best way to explore is by bike, so off I go for another excursion. This circling Coronado bike ride starts on the trail in front of the Ferry Landing and heads east in the direction of the curved, 200-foot-high Coronado Bridge. The trail follows the Bay providing views of the skyline, naval station, and intermittent boats sailing by—ranging from kayaks to US Navy ships. The ride is made even more pleasant by the sound of the waves hitting the rocks below. It also passes Tidelands Park that is very popular for weekend picnics; and a quick stop to do some pushups on the vita course.

TIDELANDS PARK
CORONADO BRIDGE
 

The trail continues under the bridge and along the Municipal Golf Course and then to the wide street of Glorietta Boulevard. Glorietta is a great place to enjoy viewing some lovely old homes. I particularly like the Charles W. Amos home, 600 Glorietta Boulevard. It was built in 1921 at a cost of $6,000, the owner was a direct descendant of Sir Francis Drake. Also interesting, is the Thompson-Waggaman Residence, 848 Glorieta Boulevard, an example of Italian Renaissance Revival architecture.This style was popular in the early 1900s. The decorative windows and arches on the first floor; and the more simple second floor, are typical of this style.

THOMPSON-WAGGAMAN RESIDENCE

"FREEDOM"
2009

Continuing on past the Coronado Yacht Club, there is a modest promenade facing the harbor which is home to a large metal sculptured sailboat by Jon Koehler—titled “Freedom.” The unique 2009 design allows for the three sails to move with the wind.

Further down the harbor is the scenic boathouse which is now home to 1887 on the Bay Restaurant. This is a Queen Ann Revival, designed in the same style as the nearby Hotel Del Coronado. Elements typical of this style include a wrap-around front porch, gables, overhanging eaves, towers, and a second story balcony. Built before the Hotel Del Coronado, it served as a dormitory for the hotel's construction workers.

BOATHOUSE-QUEEN ANN REVIVAL STYLE

From here, I like to continue on the sidewalk in front of the City Hall and Recreation Center before crossing highway 75 at the stoplight. Straight across the street is the Pacific Ocean which is a great place for a bench break; looking south you can see Imperial Beach and Mexico.  

After a break, I walk my bike on the sidewalk (biking is not allowed here) following the Ocean and enjoying a great view of the famous Hotel Del Coronado. The sidewalk ends at Ocean Boulevard.

   Biking along Ocean Boulevard provides views of the most impressive old mansions on the island. Built in the early 1900s, many have historic designations. Among them is the famous Claus Spreckels Mansion,1043 Ocean Boulevard, which was built by John D. Spreckels as a beach home in 1907; and later given to his son, Claus, as a wedding gift.  It is another example of the Italian Renaissance Revival style.

The Fitch-Baker Home, 519 Ocean Boulevard, was built in 1915 for Howard Baker—a retired capitalist from Minnesota. It was later purchased by Walter Fitch III, a mining engineer.

FITCH-BAKER HOME

JESSOP-ISRAEL HOUSE

I turn right on the last road before Ocean Boulevard leads into the North Island Naval Base (not open to the public). Here I suggest looking at a map because the roads curve and it's easy to get confused. I usually follow Coronado Avenue around until it ends and then cut over to Alameda Boulevard back to First Street.

Turning onto First Street there are some lovely old homes. A number of them are “the Jessop houses.” One of my favorites is the Dutch Colonial Jessop-Israel House at 624 First Street, built in 1907. J.Jessop & Sons was the most successful jewelry business on the West coast for almost a century. Joseph Jessop and his six sons built over 35 homes in Coronado.

ORIGINAL FERRY LANDING TICKET BOOTH
1886-1969

I continue my ride down First Street with a stop at Boney's BaysideMarket, 155 Orange Avenue, for coffee and a blueberry scone (the best anywhere). I also pick up some reasonably priced fresh fruits a vegetables. A short ride down Orange Avenue through Centennial Park and I am once again on the paved bike trail and will continue my ride back to the Ferry Landing.

BIKE RIDE TO POINT LOMA

One of my favorite things about living on Coronado is the convenience of boarding the morning commuter ferry for a ride across the bay to downtown San Diego. It is free and includes a return pass.

VIEW OF SAN DIEGO BAY

Today I'm bringing my bike along with plans for a 45 minute ride to Point Loma. What I like about this bike route is that it follows the San Diego Bay, with a lovely view of the downtown skyline, Coronado, North Island, and moored boats. It also passes the airport for a look at the landing planes. I can almost hear the flight attendants announcing to the arriving passengers,“Welcome to America's Finest City.” I continue to agree with them, it really is.

BOATS ON SHELTER ISLAND

     My first stop is Fashion Nails, 1333 Rosecrans Street, for a much needed pedicure and manicure. I love this place because they do a great job, they are fast, friendly, and only charge $21.95. When I first came to Point Loma, 12 years ago, the price was $15.95.

     After taking at least 15 minutes to get the nails dry, I'm heading out for a pleasant bike ride around Shelter Island. This is really not an island despite the name. It is connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land. It is 1.2 miles long and only a few hundred feet wide; mainly parkland, with a few marinas and hotels. Many people like to fish on the pier, or sit on the benches to enjoy the view of the bay and the hills of Point Loma. There is public art on the island, my favorite is the large bronze sculpture of  tuna fisherman by Franco Vianello.


BRONZE SCULPTURE
TUNA FISHERMEN

On the way back, I took a short detour around Harbor Island to enjoy one of the best views of the downtown skyline. This man-made island is two miles long and only a few hundred feet wide, and also connected to the mainland by a strip of land. It is mainly know for the Sheraton Hotel and marinas, but it is also home to The Island Prime Restaurant, which has a great happy hour in the connecting C Level. The skyline view from this establishment is great and well worth a visit. Convenient to the airport, it is a great stop when picking-up and dropping-off visitors.

VIEW OF SKYLINE FROM HARBOR ISLAND

I sat on the bench for awhile to take in the sights on this perfect San Diego day, and then finished my ride back to the pier to meet a friend for lunch. We dined at Anthony's Fish Grotto, 1360 North Harbor Drive. We were able to get a table with a window view of the bay. They have a value priced lunch menu with a choice of items for around $10.00. I enjoyed the fresh fish with cole slaw, and my friend, Jan, recommends the clam chowder. This is an old vintage establishment that was founded in 1946—worthy of a visit for its seafood and surroundings.

Since I had extra time to wait for the next ferry, I walked my bike on the sidewalk which leads to Seaport Village passing the Navy Pier and USSMidway Museum. The Midway is a floating aircraft carrier with 29 aircraft onboard.  There is a lot of activity along the way—it is prime tourist season in San Diego. Lots of people—however, the perfect weather more than compensates for the crowds. 

THE BAY

MARINA

TRAILER-- CALIFORNIA STYLE

otto