Valencia, Spain, with its population of 800,000, has an abundance of booksellers. However, it's the unassuming little old bookstores of Russafa that I find the most intriguing. The books are stacked floor to ceiling in bookcases and free-standing book towers are scattered precariously throughout the store. These businesses would never make the list of “most beautiful bookstores in the world,” but there is still something about the small, musty, narrow places, stuffed with old books, that I enjoy the most.
Libreria Miranfu (Calle Los Centelles 23) is one of those special places with thousands of books stacked in the bookcases and book towers that are placed in the narrow aisles throughout. It requires a bit of patience and courage to pull a book out from the towers, however, I expect you acquire that talent the more you frequent these places. The owner spoke English and was always pleasant and helpful.
Libreria de Vell Russafa (Calle Sevilla 19) sells used and out-of-print books in an aged corner store that is reminiscent of a Harry Potter movie. This well-known neighborhood bookshop, with books piled high to the sky, is one of the oldest in Valencia. Pete, the owner, often engages in conversation with fellow book lovers—and sometimes they share a sip of wine together.
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| Brunch in an old bookstore. |
Ruzafa, also known as Russafa, is a neighborhood located in southeastern Valencia (pop. 800,000). It was originally a rural farming area, that later became a working class-immigrant neighborhood and today it is referred to as the edgy hipster part of town or the “cool place to live.” It is also home to a variety of small independent shops, restaurants, cafes, bakeries, antique stores, vintage clothing, and bookstores. On a pleasant day, the customers at the many bars and cafes overflow into the streets. It's also a place where children play in parks that are surrounded by apartment buildings.
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