Thursday, October 25, 2018

BRYŃSK—A SMALL VILLAGE IN POLAND


The village of Bryńsk (formerly Bryńsk Kolonia) is located 173 km (107 miles) northwest of Warsaw, Poland. It's not a typical tourist destination—you could say it is “on the road less traveled.” However, when you are on a mission to find your roots, you may need to go to places that are out of the way and where little English is spoken.

This small village in northern Poland is where my grandmother, her siblings, and parents lived until they immigrated to the US in 1881. It was part of West Prussia and settled by Evangelic Germans after the third partition of Poland in 1795. Baptismal records indicate that my grandmother, Emma Nowak, and her siblings were baptized here. Most Germans fled Poland in the early 1900s. This village was almost completely destroyed by the Russians after World War II. The school, church and their home no longer exist. 

We recently spent some time in Warsaw and I was determined to make a side trip to Bryńsk (pop.700) to see with my own eyes where these ancestors came from. We had hoped to do it on our own, however, it quickly became clear that we were not going to get much accomplished without help. Fortunately, I was referred to a wonderful English speaking tour guide, Ula Modzelewska (Ula Warsaw Tours) who could drive us to the Lidzbark/Bryńsk area and spend the day with us.

LAKE LIDZBARK
Ula picked us up at 8 am. Our first stop was Lidzbark-Welski (pop. 8,500) where we visited the Evangelical and Catholic churches as well as two cemeteries. The town is on Lake Lidzbark and is a popular summer resort. However, it was quiet on this September day. We enjoyed a great homemade meal with meat, potatoes, and vegetables at Cabin Place—the only restaurant we could find open. 


BRYNSK - MAIN ROAD
It was about 3 pm when we left Lidzbark-Welski and headed south for the five-mile drive on the isolated, tree-lined road to Brynsk. The village is basically a straight line with about 150 homes on either side of the main street. It has one small grocery store, one Catholic church, one school, and a cemetery. This is the peaceful quiet area, surrounded by forests, where my ancestors decided to settle 150 years ago.

Ron, Michael, Susan
BRYNSK CATHOLIC CHURCH 
Our first stop was the Catholic church. Ula quickly scouted out a nearby neighbor who could open the church for us. She returned with Micheal Kwiatkowsky, the village councilman, who had a vintage skeleton key to the church and a smile on his face. He gave us a tour and told us about the church and the history of Bryńsk—all in Polish. Thankfully, Ula could interpret for us. She also made a video of the interview which she later sent to me. Michael generously shared part of his day with us, and after we left the church, he walked with us across the street to see the old Protestant cemetery. Unfortunately, there were no markings left on the gravestones or crosses. I had hoped that they would still be readable and I might find a tombstone with Nowak or Pikar written on it, but no such luck.

PROTESTANT CEMETERY
BRYNSK
Michael said that his grandmother told him about the beautiful brick homes that the Germans lived in and how impressive Brńysk was in the 1800s. He then went on to tell us that they were all destroyed by the Russians after World War II.

In 1864, records indicate that there was a wooden evangelic church and school located in Bryńsk Kolonia—they no longer exist. The current Catholic church was built in 1909 as a Protestant church and converted to a Catholic church after the war. 

It was getting late and time for us to head back to Warsaw. We slowly drove down the main street one last time, and Ula stopped so I could take photos. I could have lingered longer, but it was time go. 
BRYNSK GROCERY STORE
HOME IN BRYNSK
ORIGINAL 1909 PIPE ORGAN IN CHURCH
HOME IN BRYNSK





Thursday, October 4, 2018

RAEAPTEEK -THE OLD TOWN PHARMACY-TALLINN, ESTONIA




RAEAPTEEK MUSEUM 
In the medieval town square of Tallinn sits one of the oldest running pharmacies in all of Europe. The Old Town Hall Pharmacy, Raeapteek, has been in operation at the same location for over 600 years. Spanning over a period of 325 years and ten generations, it was run by the Burchart clan (1582-1911). The family maintained a tradition that the eldest son was always named Johann and studied to become a pharmacist.   
ENTRANCE TO PHARMACY

Today it's a popular tourist destination, not just to purchase medical supplies, but to peruse the wonderful small museum in a connecting room. It has examples of medicine and pharmacy goods that have been sold for centuries as well as other antique artifacts, rarities, and curiosities. 

Historically, the pharmacy was the place to go for medical advice, treatments, and spiritual assistance. A price list of pharmacy goods, dated 1695, gives an idea of what was sold in the Raeapteek during the Middle Ages: 54 different types of water, 25 fats, 32 balsams, 62 preserves, 128 different oils, and 71 medicinal teas. Also, on display are burnt bees, stallion hoofs, burnt hedgehogs, and dog feces that have been preserved in jars and used for medicinal purposes in previous times. 
VIEW FROM INSIDE THE OLD TOWN PHARMACY

The pharmacy was also popular as a meeting place where townspeople often stopped by for a popular glass of Claret. 
The medieval drink is made from Rhine wine, sugar, cinnamon, ginger, clove, mace, and saffron, and it can still be purchased at the pharmacy today.
                                                              * * *
The Raeapteek is located opposite the Town Hall at #11. Open Monday-Saturday 10:00 to 18:00. Entrance is free.



TINTED LIQUIDS ON DISPLAY IN THE WINDOW
OLD TOWN PHARMACY

TALLINN, ESTONIA